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23 Quick-Fix Seafood Recipes for Dinner
It is always well to commence any thesis by defining one's terms. This section deals with
food which comes out of the sea. Fish come out of the sea. Logically, therefore, recipes for
cooking fish belong here, and here they are. Seafood, however, has another meaning, at least
in the eastern part of the United States. It is a term which embraces all food that comes out of
the sea, except fish. It includes: oysters, clams, lobsters, crayfish, scallops, shrimp, prawns,
crabs, octopodes, and all other varieties of non-fish, except mammals which live in water. For
the purpose of titling this section and to keep together all denizens of the deep, I have
included fish here. In all other respects, the term "seafood" refers to non-fish. Clear?
Of all types of food, that which comes out of the water is probably the most versatile. In some
form or other it can be served at breakfast or at luncheon. It makes ideal supper dishes, it
enjoys the distinction of a course of its own at formal dinners, and it frequently is the main
course at less pretentious evening affairs. It forms an important ingredient of hors d'oeuvre
and antipasto; it makes fine soups and salads, and is as frequently eaten cold as hot. It can be
boiled, broiled, baked, stewed, sautéed, poached, and steamed. It combines well with most
seasonings and with other types of food, and, what is important here, it can be prepared more
easily and cooked more rapidly than almost anything else except eggs.
One note of caution should be mentioned, and it is iterated and reiterated in the recipes.
Seafood should be fresh. Nothing will make you quite so ill as bad fish or seafood. More than
that or perhaps less, the taste of fresh seafood is infinitely superior to that out of the water for
even a day. Great strides have been made over the past few years in the freezing and
packaging of foods, but no advance yet has succeeded in retaining the pristine goodness of
fresh seafood. If, however, you must depend on frozen fish, or lobster, or roe, or any other
variety, be sure that it is allowed to thaw naturally and thoroughly before you start to cook it.
Cooking half-thawed shrimp or crab lump can end only in disaster. One word about a specific
type of seafood: shrimp. It is preferable to start with green or raw shrimp and cook them
yourself in their shells rather than to use commercially cooked shrimp, if for no other reason
than because they will taste better. Cooking green shrimp is simple, and you will find various
methods in any basic cookbook. One method is described in the recipe called Baked Shrimp
Rapide.
There have long been two widely held beliefs about seafood: oysters are aphrodisiac and fish
is good for the brain. Unfortunately oysters have no such quality, as the first four recipes in
this section will prove—in the real but neglected sense of the word. Esquimaux live
exclusively on fish, and I have never heard of a genius from the North Pole.
▼▼▼
HUÎTRES APHRODITES SERVES 2 TO 4
The title of this recipe and part of its contents suggest a purpose and an effect above and
beyond the call of gastronomy. I have grave doubts that it will accomplish anything of the
sort. I am sure, however, that whether you serve the dish because you like oysters, or are
hungry, or for some other and ulterior motive, you will find it novel, exciting, and extremely
good.
And it is highly versatile: suitable for luncheon, informal dinner, or supper. It could well
appear as the fish course at a formal dinner. Moreover, it may be prepared equally well in
chafing dish or skillet. The proportions listed below are more or less a compromise. A pint of
oysters is not excessive for a reasonably hungry man at luncheon or supper, but it is too much
if other courses follow. This recipe, then, will be about right if it is to be the chief item at a
meal for two; otherwise it is sufficient for four.
1 QUART LARGE OYSTERS
1 TABLESPOON BUTTER
1 CLOVE GARLIC
½ TEASPOON MINT, VERY FINE
¼ TEASPOON MARJORAM
¾ TEASPOON POWDERED CINNAMON
1 PINCH CAYENNE
SALT
3 DASHES SCOTCH BONNET
¼ CUP MALMSEY
4 SPRIGS PARSLEY
Drain the oysters. Melt the butter in a chafing dish blazer or in a skillet, cook the garlic for a
few moments, and add the oysters. Sprinkle them with the mint, marjoram, cinnamon, and
cayenne. Season with salt and Scotch Bonnet, and stir well. Sauté the oysters, stirring
occasionally, until the edges begin to curl. Remove the garlic, and pour in the wine. Continue
to cook until the oysters are plump. Serve on hot plates, garnished with parsley.
The oysters may be placed on buttered triangles of hot toast, or, and I think better, be
accompanied by French bread. For salad, try Salade Belgique (qv). The best wine with
oysters is unquestionably Chablis, but this recipe is highly seasoned for that wine and is,
besides, rather a gala affair; so in a spirit of good clean fun, I commend to you: champagne.
Candor compels me to confess, too, that a glass or so of the same Malmsey that went into the
cooking is as good an accompaniment as it is an ingredient. If you must have a vegetable, let
it be tinned baby carrots. Simple fresh fruit would be the best way to finish the meal. Eve's
Dessert (qv) would be good, too.
▼▼▼
OYSTERS SMITHFIELD SERVES 4
The last place one would expect to find a recipe for inclusion in a cookbook would be a
newspaper cafeteria. Yet that is the origin of this one, or, at least, that is where I first ate
panned oysters and Smithfield ham. The cafeteria manager, who ate in the cafeteria as all
cafeteria managers should be required to do, enjoyed this combination and, during the oyster
season, was always able to produce it on demand. Occasionally on high days and holidays it
was on the regular bill of fare, price forty cents. You cannot produce it in your own kitchen
for that today, but, whatever its price, it is worth every penny. And you can cook it in less
than fifteen minutes. If you do not like Smithfield ham, you may substitute plain baked or
even boiled ham.
Photo owned by Urville
1 QUART OYSTERS
FRESH BLACK PEPPER
4 LARGE, THIN SLICES SMITHFIELD HAM, COOKED
4 SPRIGS WATER CRESS
1 LEMON, QUARTERED
In the skillet or the bottom pan of a chafing dish, cook the oysters in their own juice over a
gentle flame. After they have cooked for about two minutes, grind the pepper over them, and
cover with ham slices. Continue cooking slowly until the edges of the oysters curl and they
are plump. Remove from the fire. Place one slice of ham on each plate, put the oysters on top
of the ham, garnish with water cress and lemon quarters, and serve. A fine vegetable to go
with these oysters is braised celery, followed by Mixed Green Salad III (qv), or serve cold
asparagus spears and Hollandaise (qv), omitting salad. Crusty French bread, or rye bread with
fennel, and a well-chilled bottle of Chablis are musts. Green Mint Glacé (qv) would be a
good dessert.
▼▼▼
OYSTERS AU VIN ET ANETH SERVES 4
There was once in Paris, and may be still, a small but good inn with the fascinating name of
the Hotel of the Universe and of Portugal. It was, of course, on the Left Bank. There is no
known connection between that fact and this recipe, except that the name of the hostelry
fascinates me and the taste of the oysters prepared in this manner fascinates me too. For some
reason, obvious probably to a psychiatrist, I never eat the one without thinking of the other.
Oddly enough the same thing will happen to you.
Did you ever stand in a corner and try not to think of a white bear? But to return to our
oysters. They are almost as universal as the hotel. They may be served before the soup, or
after it; they may appear as a main course at dinner, at luncheon, and at supper. The recipe
will yield enough for four hungry people at dinner.
2 QUARTS OYSTERS
1 BOTTLE DRY WHITE WINE (CHABLIS IS BEST)
½ CUP BUTTER
6 TABLESPOONS FLOUR
2 TEASPOONS CHOPPED DILL
SALT
PEPPER
¼ CUP CREAM
¼ CUP FINE BREAD CRUMBS
4 SPRIGS WATER CRESS
Drain the oysters well. Place the wine in a saucepan, and bring it to a boil over a low flame.
Add the oysters and continue cooking for about one minute, or until the wine commences to
simmer again. Cover, turn out the fire, and allow the oysters to poach for another minute or
minute and a half. Drain the oysters, reserving the wine, and place them in a large casserole
or in individual ovenproof dishes. Strain the wine through cheesecloth. Melt the butter in the
saucepan, add the flour, and make a light roux, cooking it over a low flame for about five
minutes. Remove from the fire and gradually pour in enough of the hot, strained wine to
make a sauce, blending it well with a wooden spoon to avoid lumping.
Add the dill, salt, and pepper, and cook over a small flame, stirring constantly until the sauce
is cooked, add the cream, and cook a few minutes more. Pour the sauce over the oysters,
sprinkle with bread crumbs, and dot with butter. Place in a hot oven (500 degrees) for three
minutes. Remove, garnish with water cress, and serve very hot. There are no vegetables
which go well with this dish. You will want to serve French bread to sop up the sauce, and
follow the oysters with a raw Spinach Salad (qv). The wine should be Chablis. Ginger Ching
(qv) would be a refreshing dessert.
▼▼▼
OYSTER STEW HARFORD SERVES 2
As far as I know this stew was invented by my father; I have never found it anywhere except
in my own home. How he managed to make this contribution to the table has always
remained a mystery, as he could cook nothing else except bacon and eggs over a camp-fire.
Mystery or no, you will agree that his recipe is outstanding. Aside from the fact that it
contains oysters, this stew has little in common with the oyster stews noted on restaurant
menus in the eastern maritime states, and even less with those made beyond the mountains
where fresh unfrozen oysters are difficult to come by. If this dish is to be the soul-satisfying
thing it can be, fresh oysters are essential. A quart of oysters for two is not excessive if one
remembers that this recipe produces a stew, not a soup to be eaten as part of a meal. It is a
meal in itself. It is especially recommended for Sunday supper or an after-theatre party, as it
responds well to chafing dish treatment.
1 QUART FRESH, LARGE OYSTERS
6 TABLESPOONS BUTTER
1 CUP CHOPPED ONION
¾ CUP DICED CELERY, INCLUDING THE LEAVES
¼ DICED APPLE
½ PINT TABLE CREAM
SALT
PEPPER
2 TABLESPOONS PAPRIKA
Strain the oysters, but do not wash them. Reserve the oyster liquor. Melt the butter in a large
skillet or the top pan of a chafing dish. Add the oyster liquor. When the liquid is hot, put in
the diced onion, celery, and apple, and allow to cook slowly. This stew must be cooked
slowly over a low flame at all times, and must never be permitted to boil. When the celery
and onions are soft, about ten or fifteen minutes, pour in the cream, and then season to taste
with salt and pepper. Continue to cook slowly. Just as the first simmering bubbles appear
around the edges of the skillet, put in the oysters. Continue to cook over a low heat, stirring
frequently with a wooden spoon, until the oysters are done. Properly cooked oysters are
plump, firm, and the edges curl. Overcooking will make them shrink and detract from their
flavor. The moment the oysters are done, serve the stew in very hot plates, garnished with a
sprinkling of paprika.
Cole Slaw Mabel (qv) makes a good accompaniment; a better one is raw cabbage, cut into
wedges and served without dressing; and a large dish of oyster crackers. Add a bottle of
Chablis and the supper becomes a feast. Fresh fruit or a Blue cheese, such as Stilton or
Roquefort, is the only possible finale.
▼▼▼
CLAMS OZ SERVES 4
Unless you like pepper, this dish is not for you, but if you do, you will find it exhilarating
and, as the English say, "absolutely wizard." The recipe is controlled completely by the
quantity and the quality of the pepper put into the sauce. It must be freshly ground black Java
pepper, and you should use at least a teaspoonful, or more, depending on your tolerance.
Properly made it is an ideal clam dish for luncheon or supper; it has merit as a fish course at
dinner; and if you are fond of soft clams you may wish to serve it as a main course for that
meal. If you do, you would be well advised to add a fourth tin of clams.
3 TINS UNDERWOOD SOFT CLAMS
2 BOTTLES CLAM JUICE
1 BAY LEAF
½ TEASPOON THYME
3 TABLESPOONS BUTTER
2 TABLESPOONS FLOUR
½ TABLESPOON DRY MUSTARD
2 TABLESPOONS WHITE WINE
½ TEASPOON SALT
1 TEASPOON MONOSODIUM GLUTAMATE
½ TABLESPOON FRESH BLACK PEPPER
Drain the clams and discard the liquid. Place the bottled clam juice in a saucepan; add the bay
leaf and thyme, and place, covered, over a low flame to simmer for about fifteen minutes.
Melt the butter in another and larger saucepan, add the flour and dry mustard to make a roux,
and cook for five minutes over a low flame. When cooked, remove the bay leaf from the clam
juice, and gradually add the juice to the roux to make a sauce. Cook the sauce slowly, stirring
constantly, for about ten minutes. Add the white wine, the salt, the monosodium glutamate,
and grind in the black pepper. Still stirring, cook until the sauce comes to a boil, but do not
allow it to boil. Put the clams in the sauce, heat through, and serve at once.
You may serve the clams on toast triangles, but French bread on the side is better. For
vegetables: baby beets, to give color, or baby lima beans are suggestions. Personally I do not
like vegetables with clams, but think a Double Cressed Salad (qv) after them makes an
enviable luncheon or supper. Beer is an excellent beverage with these clams, and so, too, for
that matter, is a moderately dry white wine, Vouvray, for example. Fragole Marsala (qv) is a
dessert to be considered.
▼▼▼
CLAM STEW BARNEY OLDFIELD SERVES 2
Aside from its succulence, the chief attribute of this stew is the celerity with which it can be
concocted and served. Hence its name. I have never timed it, but my guess is that it can be
got ready and served in about the time it takes a fast racing car to make one circuit of the
Nürburgring, or say ten minutes. It is one of the products of the luncheon club mentioned in
the Introduction and is the first dish I think of when I have to put a midday meal or a supper
on the table in haste. It has merit beyond its speed, as it is rich, full-flavored, and filling. It is,
too, ideal for chafing dish cookery. If you and your guest are very hungry, it might be wise to
double the quantities, as the recipe yields no more than two medium portions. Brands other
than those mentioned may do as well, but I have not tried them. I know these will make an
excellent dish.
1 TIN UNDERWOOD SOFT CLAMS
1 TIN CAMPBELL'S CONDENSED CLAM CHOWDER
2 TABLESPOONS DRY WHITE WINE
Photo owned by Marlith
Drain the clams and reserve the liquor. Put the clam chowder in a saucepan or chafing dish,
and, over a low heat, thin with liquor from the clams. (If all the liquid is used, the stew will
be on the thin side; three quarters of the clam juice will give a good, solid stew.) Add the
clams and heat thoroughly. Just before serving, stir the while wine in well; the stew will need
no other seasoning.
Carr's Table Water Biscuits and a Covent Garden Salad (qv) with hot coffee make a highly
satisfactory quick meal. If it is to be more than that, include broccoli as a vegetable, a bottle
of Riesling, and Peaches Tiberius (qv) for dessert. Crab Imperial, Deviled Crab, Crab
Ravigotte, Stuffed Crab, or Crab Capitol are essentially the same, with only minor variations
in content. One uses green peppers, another mayonnaise, some use egg yolks raw, others use
eggs hard-boiled; one at least uses poultry seasoning. The differences are unimportant. All
have in common dry mustard and other chemically hot condiments. This particular recipe
could be given any of the foregoing names without fear of serious dissent, but as it was first
prepared in the shadow of the Capitol in Washington that seemed an appropriate name. If
another reason is required, the crab mixture could be heaped in the baking dishes to resemble
a dome and topped with half a radish in lieu of the Statue of Freedom. Back-fin crab lump
makes a better dish, but for once ordinary crab flakes may be substituted, with pecuniary
benefit to the host. This is a good dinner dish, and does well at luncheon or supper.
½ POUND MUSHROOMS
2 LARGE STALKS CELERY
2 PIMIENTOS
3 SPRING ONIONS
6 TABLESPOONS BUTTER
l½ CUPS MILK
5 TABLESPOONS FLOUR
1 TEASPOON SALT
½ TEASPOON BLACK PEPPER
1/8 TEASPOON CAYENNE
1 TABLESPOON DRY MUSTARD
TABASCO
¼ CUP WHITE WINE
l½ POUNDS CRAB LUMP
4 TEASPOONS FINE BREAD CRUMBS
Chop the mushrooms, not too fine. Dice the celery and the pimientos, and slice the spring
onions all fine but not minced. Melt the butter in a large skillet and sauté the mushrooms over
a low fire until they are about half cooked. Add the celery and the onion and continue to cook
over a low flame until they are soft. Scald the milk. Add the flour to the skillet and blend into
a light roux. Cook for about five minutes, remove from the fire, and gradually stir in the hot
milk to make a smooth sauce. Put in the salt, pepper, cayenne, mustard, and three or four
dashes Tabasco. Stir in well and return to the fire, cooking slowly until the sauce thickens,
about ten minutes, stirring constantly. Add the white wine and stir well. Place the crab lump
in a large bowl, add the diced pimientos, and pour on the contents of the skillet. Mix the
whole very thoroughly but gently with a fork or your fingers, being careful not to break up
the crab. Grease four individual baking dishes or ramekins with butter—use crab shells for an
informal meal—and fill each with a goodly portion of the crab mixture. Sprinkle lightly with
bread crumbs, dot with a little butter, and bake in a moderate oven (350 degrees) for five
minutes. Serve hot.
For the same reason that I eat homemade biscuits with fish-habit—I eat fresh asparagus with
this crab, but there is no reason why you should not serve Brussels sprouts or any other green
vegetable with it. Mixed Green Salad I (qv) will follow it beautifully. And it cries aloud for
wine. Beer is possible, but a Chablis or a Riesling is much, much better. Raspberry Fluff (qv)
would be a suitable dessert.
▼▼▼
CRAB CHESAPEAKE SERVES 2
The Chesapeake Bay and the land immediately surrounding it are justly famous for their
history, hospitality, and contributions to gastronomy. Among these last, the oyster and the
blue crab, soft shell or hard, are, if I may use the expression, peerless peers. No resident of
the area will admit that any other seafood anywhere can compare with either. He may be
right. But right or wrong, few dishes will equal in delicacy of flavor Crab Chesapeake. At
first glance this recipe may seem to be no more than crab served in a cream sauce. The
difference, for which we give a large "vive" lies in the use of saffron, whose subtle flavor
adds to that of the crab and imparts a piquancy of its own.
To make this dish properly—and if you do not make it that way, do not make it at all—you
must use back-fin crab lump; crab flakes simply will not do. The fresher it is, the better, but if
you are limited to frozen crab lump, be sure that it has thawed slowly and completely.
2 TABLESPOONS BUTTER
2 TABLESPOONS FLOUR
½ PINT TABLE CREAM
1 EGG YOLK
4 TABLESPOONS SHERRY
½ TEASPOON POWDERED SAFFRON
SALT
PEPPER
1 POUND FRESH CRAB LUMP
PAPRIKA
In a large skillet or moderate-size saucepan, make a roux with the butter and flour; add the
cream, and stir into a light cream sauce. Shake up the egg yolk with one tablespoon of the
sherry in a swirl mixer, or beat together lightly in a cup, and thicken the sauce with this
mixture, being sure that once the egg has been added the sauce is never allowed to boil. Cook
the sauce slowly until it just reaches the simmering stage. It should be quite thick. Add the
remaining sherry, and stir in the saffron. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Now add the
crab lump, and stir it well in with a wooden spoon, being careful not to break up the crab
lumps.
Get the mixture as hot as possible without boiling, and serve immediately on triangles of
buttered toast. Garnish with paprika. This dish must not be allowed to stand; it becomes mush
and is worse than cold scrambled eggs. If for whatever reason you cannot serve it
immediately, keep it warm in a double boiler.
This crab is good at any time, but is at its best, I think, at Sunday supper, or as a main dish at
an intimate dinner. Baby carrots and Mixed Green Salad III (qv) are suggested as combining
well with it. Or you might omit the carrots and the salad and serve cold artichokes with
Hollandaise (qv). A very good Piesporter is a fitting beverage, but it must be of the best.
Although crabs and beer are traditional companions, in this case beer is de trop. Bananas
Senegalese (qv) is possible with Crab Chesapeake—but fresh fruit is much better.
▼▼▼
CRAB CFUSFIELD SERVES 4
Crisfield, on the Eastern Shore of Maryland, is the center of the Chesapeake Bay crabbing
industry and produces some of the finest crab meat in the world. It is only proper, therefore,
that the town should give its name to at least one crab dish. The local city fathers should be
truly proud to claim this one, which is a kind of baked crab salad. The original recipe
included shrimp. It came from one whose impeccable taste in sherry indicates a true
gastronome . . . but in my opinion, shrimp detracts from, rather than adds to, the dish, which
would be welcome at any meal except a formal dinner. Even there it would serve as a fish
course. From a culinary point of view, the recipe is technically interesting, because the onion,
celery, and green pepper are not sautéed in butter before they are added to the crab. The
recipe will suffice for four, if the four are not too hungry.
1 CHOPPED MEDIUM ONION
l½ CHOPPED GREEN PEPPERS
½ CUP CHOPPED CELERY
2 POUNDS CRAB LUMP
1 CUP COOKED PEAS
1 TABLESPOON WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE
SALT
CAYENNE
l½ CUPS MAYONNAISE
4 TABLESPOONS BUTTER
½ CUP FINE BREAD CRUMBS
Photo owned by Malagua
Chop the onion, the green pepper, and the celery very fine. Place the crab in a large mixing
bowl, add the green pepper, celery, onion, cooked peas, Worcestershire sauce, about half a
teaspoon of salt, and a pinch or two of cayenne. Ladle the mayonnaise over it, and mix all
very well. Grease a baking dish or casserole with butter, and put the mixture in it. Cover with
thin patties of butter, and sprinkle the bread crumbs over all. Place in a moderate oven (350
degrees) for twenty-five or thirty minutes. Serve hot.
With peas as an integral part of the dish, you will require no green vegetable. I like to serve it
with French bread or biscuits, but julienne potatoes would be extremely good. For salad, Cole
Slaw Mabel (qv) is not to be overlooked. You will want a dry white wine such as a
Niersteiner, or a reasonably good Chablis. The really good ones should be reserved for
oysters. Chocolate Whiffle (qv) is a possible dessert, as is a Rum Omelette (qv).
▼▼▼
SOFT CRABS MARYLAND SERVES 2
Properly cooked, the soft crab is to seafood what Napoleon brandy is to spirits, what Chateau
Yquem is to sauterne, and what Hecate is to witches. Like roost food which comes out of the
waters, the soft crab is at its best when it is freshly caught, cleaned instantly, cooked
immediately, and eaten at once. Unless, of course, you are living hard by the crab's home, this
is impracticable, but under no circumstances should you buy anything but live crabs. They
should be cleaned either by the chef in the kitchen just before cooking; or by the fishmonger
at the time of purchase, taken to the stove swiftly, and sautéed forthwith. (If you do not know
the technique of cleaning soft crabs, a demonstration is almost mandatory. Once seen and
explained, it is simple, messy, but very rewarding in the feeling of accomplishment it gives.)
There is one way and one way only to cook the soft crab so as to preserve its delicate flavour.
It must be sautéed unadorned and quickly in butter, and seasoned with salt and pepper when
it is about half done. To dip it in batter or in bread crumbs is a blasphemy; to serve it with
tartar or any sauce other than its own juices mixed with butter is a heresy worse than that of
the Albigenses.
1/8 POUND BUTTER
6 SOFT CRABS
SALT
PEPPER
4 SPRIGS PARSLEY
Melt the butter in a skillet large enough to accommodate all the crabs flat on their fronts. Use
two skillets if necessary. The crabs will shrink a little in cooking; they will also splatter, so
wear an apron. When the butter is hot—it should not brown before the crabs go in—add the
crabs and sauté rapidly for about five minutes. Turn each crab with a spatula or cake turner,
and cook rapidly on their backs for five minutes. Season with salt and pepper, turn crabs
over, and season again. Continue cooking for another five minutes.
Remove to a hot platter, pour over them the juices from the skillet, garnish with parsley, and
serve. The only possible additional flavouring might be a dash of juice squeezed from a
freshly cut lemon.
The perfect accompaniment to soft crabs is corn on the cob, fresh corn on the cob with lots of
butter, salt, and freshly ground pepper. That and a raw Spinach Salad (qv) make an almost
perfect meal, whether it be luncheon, dinner, or supper. If you want another vegetable try
baby carrots. For beverage you may serve a Piesporter or even a Graves, but the ideal drink
with soft crabs is beer, cold and in quantity. And for dessert, be festive and serve Cherries
Jubilee (qv). There is no truth in the rumour that crabs and ice cream are incompatible.
▼▼▼
LOBSTER CANTONESE SERVES 4
One of the great cuisines of the world is Chinese, of which there are two rival schools:
Cantonese and Mandarin. To argue their respective merits is feckless, but to draw on them for
culinary lore makes sense. This recipe derives from the Cantonese school. Much of its merit
comes from the inclusion of bamboo shoots and water chestnuts. These two comestibles are
not always available, and I have substituted for them celery and carrots respectively. If you
can procure the two Chinese items, use them; if not, the more homely American vegetables
will do admirably. Use freshly cooked lobster if possible; otherwise tinned Canadian lobster
will suffice. This is a splendid luncheon or supper dish and will give you an opportunity to
use those chopsticks which Uncle Fred brought back from his trip around the world.
3 STALKS CELERY
1 LARGE CARROT
4 SPRING ONIONS
3 TABLESPOONS WESSON—OR OTHER BLAND—OIL
6 RASHERS BACON
3 CUPS CHICKEN BROTH
½ CUP WATER
3 TEASPOONS SOY SAUCE
3 TABLESPOONS CORNSTARCH
4 CUPS COOKED LOBSTER MEAT, COARSELY CHOPPED
2 EGGS
1 TEASPOON GARLIC POWDER
½ TEASPOON PEPPER
1 TEASPOON M0N0S0DIUM GLUTAMATE
Dice the celery and the carrot, and slice the spring onions, including the green tops, all very
fine. Heat the oil very hot in a skillet, put in the diced onion, celery, and carrot; and cook,
stirring frequently, over a moderate flame for about twelve minutes. Meanwhile, in another
skillet, fry the bacon until crisp, discard the grease, drain the bacon, and mince it. Heat the
chicken broth. Mix the water, the soy sauce, and the cornstarch until smooth. Place the
chopped lobster in the skillet with the celery, carrot, and onion mixture. Add the bacon, and
pour the chicken broth over it. Beat the eggs lightly, and pour in. Do all this over a low fire,
stirring constantly. Let cook for about five minutes, and then gradually add the water-
soysauce-cornstarch mixture. Season the whole with garlic powder, black pepper, and mono-
sodium glutamate. Let cook another five minutes, continuing to stir. Serve hot.
I have tried this dish over toast and it was very good, but it really should be served over
steamed or boiled rice, with, perhaps, a few peas, chopped broccoli, or bok toy. It goes well
with tea, better with beer, even better with white wine. But by borrowing an idea from the
Japanese, you may get an almost perfect combination. Serve hot Sake or, failing that, pour a
bottle of Sauterne into a saucepan and heat it, without letting it boil. Remove to a covered
pitcher with a spout, and serve warm in after-dinner coffee cups. I think no salad is necessary
or desirable. The dessert will be, of course, Ginger Ching (qv).
Photo owned by Matthew
▼▼▼
LOBSTER STEW MERCEDES-BENZ SERVES 2
This quick lobster stew is a rich, colourful, and useful contribution to luncheon, supper, and
late party menus. Like Clam Stew Barney Oldfield it is simple and very fast to make, and can
be put together in the kitchen or in a chafing dish with equal celerity. For some reason,
probably because of Lobster Lil, it has always seemed a little more formal than the Clam
Stew and could well be the basis for a proper dinner. The recipe makes just about enough for
two moderately hungry souls; so you may wish to increase the quantity if you and your guest
want more than a "short order" meal. However or whenever you have it, you will find it a
rewarding dish.
1 TIN AU GOURMET CANADIAN LOBSTER
1 TIN JACK AUGUST'S LOBSTER STEW
½ CUP CREAM
1 TABLESPOON BUTTER
2 TABLESPOONS SHERRY
¼ TEASPOON POWDERED SAFFRON
SALT
PEPPER
Remove the gristle from the lobster claws, and cut the lobster into generous pieces. Put the
Jack August stew into a saucepan or the top pan of a chafing dish, thin with cream, and add
the butter. When the butter has melted, stir in the sherry and the saffron. Season to taste with
salt and pepper. Add the lobster meat and heat thoroughly over a low flame. Serve in hot
soup plates.
Trenton oyster crackers or buttered French bread should be served with the stew. It is
delicious, too, over boiled rice. With lobster I like a Piesporter. To follow I would suggest
Salade Belgique (qv) with a mustard dressing. Like Oyster Stew Harford, this is no dish for
calorie counters. Eve's Dessert (qv) would end the meal pleasantly and not too richly.
▼▼▼
BAKED SHRIMP RAPIDE SERVES 4
These shrimp are similar to what is known in the Chesapeake Bay country as Shrimp
Norfolk, but are quicker and will not dry up as Shrimp Norfolk have been known to do. The
wine and dill combine to impart a very delicate taste to this dish; yet a man was once so
callous as to pour ketchup on it. His wife left him. Starting with already cooked shrimp, the
recipe takes about fifteen minutes; with green shrimp, double the time.
Green shrimp are much better and less expensive than commercially cooked shrimp, and little
trouble to prepare (see below). As given, the recipe will feed four moderately hungry people.
It would do better, probably, for three, as a half-pound of shrimp per person is not
unreasonable. Two pounds of raw shrimp will yield about a pound and a half of cooked.
To cook green shrimp: half fill a large saucepan with water and add the juice of a lemon and
a tablespoon of salt. Bring the water to a boil, toss in the unshelled shrimp, and boil them for
five minutes—no longer. Drain in a colander, run cold water over them, or place in a
refrigerator until they are cool enough to handle. Remove the shells and devein them.
l½ POUNDS COOKED SHRIMP
6 TABLESPOONS BUTTER
3 TEASPOONS FINELY CHOPPED FRESH DILL
1 TEASPOON SALT
¼ TEASPOON BLACK PEPPER
½ CUP DRY WHITE WINE
4 SPRIGS WATER CRESS
Grease four ovenproof individual serving dishes lightly with butter. Put in the shrimp, dot
with butter, sprinkle with dill (dried dill or dill seed may be substituted for fresh), salt, and
pepper. Pour the wine overall and place in an oven pre-heated to 350 degrees. Ten minutes
will suffice to heat thoroughly, but baste twice during that time. Remove from the oven,
garnish with water cress, and serve very hot. Almost any green vegetable goes well with
these shrimp. Serve them with salt sticks and hot artichokes with melted butter, and follow
with Beet Daishe (qv). Better yet, substitute Avocado Salad (qv) for the vegetables and the
Daishe. The wine should be light, a Riesling or a Niersteiner. One dessert might be Green
Mint Glacé (qv).
▼▼▼
SHRIMP CREOLE SERVES 4
This is a quick version of a famous Louisiana shrimp dish and belongs in that group of
recipes which use tinned, concentrated soups for sauces. Thus made, it has the additional
merit of being qualitatively elastic, as you may always add rice—the rice in the soup is
enough for four normal servings—and thus make the recipe stretch to feed an additional
mouth. The same sauce may be used to equally good advantage with cooked chicken, either
cubed or in larger pieces, such as breasts or legs. If, therefore, your larder contains a few tins
of condensed gumbo Creole soup, and a tin or two of either shrimp—fresh shrimp are
better—or boned chicken you have quickly available an excellent means of coping with
unexpected diners and can urge them to stay with a good conscience, or, at least, and it comes
to the same thing, secure in the knowledge that you can feed them well and fully.
Photo owned by Cayenne Man
2 RASHERS BACON
4 STALKS CELERY
1 MEDIUM ONION
2 TABLESPOONS BUTTER
2 TINS CONDENSED GUMBO CREOLE SOUP
4 TABLESPOONS CONDENSED CREAM OF TOMATO SOUP
½ CUP WHITE WINE
SALT
PEPPER
TABASCO
l½ POUNDS COOKED SHRIMP
Sauté the bacon until crisp, and chop it, not too fine. Dice the celery and the onion. Melt the
butter in a small skillet and sauté the celery and onion dice until soft. Empty the gumbo
Creole soup into a large saucepan, add the cooked bacon, the celery, onion, tomato soup, and
white wine. Season with salt and pepper and a dash or two of Tabasco. Stir the mixture well
and put in the shrimp. Cook over a low flame until thoroughly hot. Serve very hot.
Cold artichokes with Hollandaise (qv) may serve as both salad and green vegetable, as may
an Avocado Salad (qv), but without bacon in the dressing. An excellent wine would be
Liebfraumilch, while Chocolate Cheese (qv) would be a good dessert.
▼▼▼
SHRIMP ORLEANS SERVES 4
Shrimp Orleans could be said to stand in loco parentis to this book. It, like a Rasputini (qv), a
noble drink, was born of the same necessity: making too little do for too many. Or, to be
exact, stretching the quantity of available food and drink to nourish a couple of extra guests
who arrived after the shops had closed and when I was low on both gin and shrimp.
The success of the cocktail, but more especially of the shrimp, spurred a search for other
exciting recipes which could be prepared quickly with ingredients easily stored in the larder.
Because it was partly to help meet similar emergencies that this book was written, Shrimp
Orleans merits appreciation; its taste merits acclaim.
A short note on the ingredients may be helpful. The recipe calls for freshly cooked shrimp
and a specific kind of concentrated crayfish bisque, a product of New Orleans. Frozen,
tinned, or jarred shrimp may be substituted, but in that case the sauce should be allowed to
simmer alone until you are almost ready to serve, the shrimp then added and cooked only
long enough to heat through. The method of cooking green shrimp appears under Baked
Shrimp Rapide (qv). Now for the crayfish bisque.
The recipe was first made with a variety called "Laugh Eat", a dreadful pun on the name of
the famous Louisiana freebooter. This is the best soup I have found for the purpose. "Vieux
Carre" another variety, obviously from New Orleans, will serve almost as well. If neither is
available, try a good tinned shrimp or lobster bisque. I have used both successfully. They are
not concentrated as a rule, and you should omit the cream. The end result differs somewhat
from the original Shrimp Orleans, but it is still a good dish.
l¼ CUPS UNCOOKED RICE
3 TABLESPOONS CHOPPED PARSLEY
2 TINS "LAUGH EAT" CRAYFISH BISQUE
½ PINT CREAM
1 TEASPOON CURRY POWDER
1 TEASPOON SALT
¼ TEASPOON PEPPER
l½ POUNDS COOKED FRESH SHRIMP
While the rice is boiling, chop the parsley very fine. Put the soup into a large saucepan or
skillet and gradually dilute with cream, while heating slowly. Stirring constantly, make a
fairly thick sauce. When the sauce is smooth and the consistency desired, add the parsley,
curry powder, salt, and pepper. Put in the shrimp, and let the dish simmer for about fifteen
minutes. Serve over hot rice, which should be just about ready to eat by the time the shrimp
are cooked.
Served with a dry white wine such as Pouilly Fuissé, and followed by Mixed Green Salad I
(qv) containing plenty of spring onions, radishes, and raw carrots, Shrimp Orleans will give
you a memorable dinner. If you want to add a green vegetable, peas or baby carrots are
recommended. To make the evening more memorable, substitute for the white wine a type of
French vin rose called Sainte Roseline. It is superb. One fine dessert would be Cherries
Jubilee (qv).
▼▼▼
SHRIMP RISOTTO SERVES 4
A risotto is a stew made with rice. The other chief ingredient can be ham—an example
follows later—or chicken, or lamb, or any number of seafoods. This one happens to be made
with shrimp. It is essentially an informal dish for dinner or supper, but can prove useful, too,
at luncheon. You may add to the recipe chopped onions, or peas, or garlic, without harm or
much improvement. As it stands, the recipe is quick and simple but provides adequate
provender. If you wish to cut a corner—some of these recipes can be streamlined further—
you may substitute tinned mushrooms for fresh but will lose in flavour noticeably if you do.
In a pinch, too, you could use plain steamed rather than wild rice without serious damage.
l½ POUNDS COOKED SHRIMP
½ POUND FRESH MUSHROOMS
1 TIN (TWELVE OUNCES) COOKED WILD RICE
5 TABLESPOONS BUTTER
1 LARGE DICED GREEN PEPPER
1 SMALL JAR (THREE) DICED PIMIENTOS
SALT
PEPPER
TABASCO
6 TABLESPOONS WHITE WINE
If the shrimp are large, cut into thirds; if small, into halves. Wash the mushrooms, remove
stems, and slice both caps and stems not too fine. Wash the rice in running warm water in a
colander for two minutes. Melt two tablespoons of the butter in a large, heavy saucepan, and
sauté over a moderate flame the diced green pepper until soft. Add the mushrooms and two
more tablespoons butter, and continue to sauté the mixture, turning frequently, for about five
minutes. Reduce the flame. Add the wild rice, the diced pimiento, and the chopped shrimp;
season with salt, pepper, and two dashes of Tabasco. Pour in the white wine, and thoroughly
stir the mixture. Place the remaining tablespoon of butter on top of the risotto, and let cook
over a low fire for about ten minutes more. Serve on hot plates.
The best possible green vegetables with this shrimp are peas or green beans, served
separately or cooked and added to the risotto just before you put in the wine. If you want an
unforgettable risotto dish, include exotic ingredients like shiitake mushrooms and truffle oil.
Follow it with a Greenbrier Salad (qv) and drink with it a good Niersteiner or a Tavel. For
dessert, Chocolate Whiffle (qv) might be amusing.
▼▼▼
SCALLOPS MARINARA SERVES 4
You will find, as you go through this cookbook, a number of uses for Marinara Sauce, but
none of them will be more apposite than its combination with scallops. Thus dressed, scallops
make a fine appearance and a quick one too, at luncheon or supper or, in smaller quantity, as
a fish course at a formal dinner. Whether you cook this recipe in the kitchen or at the table in
a chafing dish, take care not to overcook the scallops lest they become tough.
Photo owned by Archon
3 TABLESPOONS BUTTER
3 TABLESPOONS DRY WHITE WINE
2 FOUNDS SCALLOPS
½ TEASPOON SALT
½ TEASPOON PEPPER
6 TABLESPOONS MARINARA SAUCE
Melt the butter in a skillet or the blazer of a chafing dish. Add the white wine. When the
mixture is hot, put in the scallops and season with salt and pepper. Cook over low heat,
turning frequently, until almost done, about four minutes. Drain the scallops, return them to
the skillet, and add the Marinara Sauce. Stir well, and cook for about three minutes more.
Serve at once on hot plates. Serve the scallops on toast triangles, or accompany them with
French bread, or julienne potatoes. Any green vegetable should be quite plain: peas, baby
carrots, or carrots julienne sautéed in a little butter with a hint of sugar, or simple spinach—
all are possibilities. Follow with an equally simple salad, such as Covent Garden (qv). The
wine should be white, but can be either dry or a little, but very little, on the sweet side. A
Barsac would be ideal. Try Raspberry Fluff (qv) for dessert.
▼▼▼
SCALLOPS MENTON SERVES 4
In some restaurants this method of cooking scallops is listed on the menu as "Scallops
Provencal." Normally, Sauce Provencal contains tomatoes, which have always been
extensively grown in the area around Avignon and in Provence generally. But the most
obvious ingredient of this sauce is garlic—a condiment not exactly unknown in France but
better known in Italy. Menton lies on the border between the two countries; what better name
could there be?
Whether you serve it for luncheon, or supper, or as an informal dinner, it takes only a few
minutes to prepare and will gladden the heart and stomach, not to mention the tongue, of any
gourmet. But before you serve it be sure your guests like garlic.
2 POUNDS SCALLOPS
3 LARGE CLOVES GARLIC
8 TABLESPOONS BUTTER
1 TEASPOON FLOUR
3 TABLESPOONS CHOPPED PARSLEY
½ TEASPOON SALT
¼ TEASPOON PEPPER
1 TEASPOON PAPRIKA
2 TABLESPOONS WHITE WINE
1 LEMON, QUARTERED
Drain the scallops. Mince the garlic very fine, or, better yet, put it through a garlic press. In a
large skillet, brown four tablespoons of butter. Sauté the scallops in the butter, carefully
turning them, for approximately five minutes over a moderate fire. Cooking them longer will
make them tough. Brown remainder of the butter in a small saucepan, thicken it slightly with
the flour, lower the heat, and add the chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and paprika. About a
minute and a half before you are ready to serve, add the garlic. It is likely to turn brown if
added sooner.
Remove the scallops to a hot platter, discarding the juices in which they have cooked. Add
the white wine to the sauce, heat for a few seconds longer, and pour the sauce over the
scallops. Garnish with lemon quarters.
French bread is ideal with this, or homemade baking-powder biscuits. Chopped broccoli au
naturel and/or baby beets can be added for vegetables. Or perhaps creamed spinach with a
mere hint of onion. The salad should be bland, Salade Belgique (qv), for example, with a
light vinegar and oil dressing. Oddly enough, these scallops do extremely well with a good
Graves. Fragole Marsala (qv) would make an appropriate and good dessert.
▼▼▼
BAKED SALMON DORIA SERVES 4
One advantage of this recipe is that it may be used to cook either a whole salmon or salmon
steaks. If the latter, have them cut about an inch and a half thick. The first time I tried this
recipe, but before sampling the result, I was not too happy about combining cream and
cucumber. It reminded me too vividly of a motion picture in which Wallace Beery, dressed in
armour, sat on a castle wall and made an horrendous lunch from a gigantic dill pickle and a
quart bottle of milk. The combination here, I assure you, is quite different. The cucumber
imparts a very delicate and pleasant flavour to the sauce. It is an excellent dinner dish and, if
you cook a whole salmon, noble in appearance. Fresh minced garlic may be substituted for
the garlic powder, of course.
Photo owned by Marlith
2 CUCUMBERS
1 TEASPOON SALT
½ TEASPOON BLACK PEPPER
4 TEASPOONS THYME
1 TABLESPOON MINCED PARSLEY
1 TEASPOON GARLIC POWDER
¼ POUND BUTTER
1 SALMON, ABOUT FIVE POUNDS
½ PINT CREAM
½ PINT MILK
¼ LARGE CARROT, SLICED VERY THIN
4 SPRIGS PARSLEY
Peel the cucumbers and slice them coarsely. Mix the salt, pepper, thyme, parsley, and garlic
powder well in a small bowl. Melt the butter in a large baking pan with a cover. Rub the herb
and seasoning mixture well into the fish on both sides. Place the fish in the melted butter and
baste it well. Pour in the cream and milk, and place the cucumber slices around the fish.
Cover and bake in a hot oven (450 degrees) for about fifty minutes—less for salmon steaks—
or until fish is done. Transfer it to a serving platter. Discard the cucumber, and pour the sauce
over the fish. Garnish with carrot slices and sprigs of parsley, and serve.
Not whim but habit has accustomed me to eating homemade biscuits with fish, and I see no
reason to make an exception in this case; but if you do not like biscuits, try French-fried or
julienne potatoes instead. Carrot slices sautéed in butter and a touch of sugar make an
appropriate vegetable and one which will "pick up" the decor of the fish itself. Cole Slaw
Mabel (qv) or Tomato Daishe (qv) would be good salad choices. For wine I would select a
Piesporter, and for dessert Peaches Tiberius (qv).
▼▼▼
SOLE VERMOUTH SERVES 4
I am indebted to a widely travelled friend for this splendid and unusual recipe, which makes a
fine fish course for a formal dinner or a fine main course for that matter. The vermouth
imparts an intriguing flavour, but be sure that the type you use is very dry. Any other kind
will bring ruin. The recipe calls for sole, but fillet of flounder makes a most acceptable
substitute in this case.
1/8 POUND BUTTER
½ CUP ONION, CHOPPED FINE
½ POUND SLICED MUSHROOMS
SALT
PEPPER
l½ POUNDS FILLET OF SOLE
¾ CUP DRY VERMOUTH
1 PINT CREAM
4 SPRIGS PARSLEY
Melt the butter in a shallow pan large enough to take the fish. Cook the chopped onion until
soft over a low fire, and add the sliced mushrooms; continue to cook slowly, stirring from
time to time, until the mushrooms are brown. Season well with salt and pepper. Remove from
the fire. Place the fillets of fish on the bed of mushrooms and onions; pour the vermouth and
cream over it. Place the pan in a moderate oven (350 degrees) and poach until done, about
thirty minutes. Transfer the fish to a hot platter; pour the contents of the pan over it. Garnish
with sprigs of parsley and serve.
Hot biscuits or baby new potatoes with butter and chopped parsley, and boiled, unpeeled
zucchini or plain spinach go well with this sole, which should be followed by Cole Slaw
Mabel (qv) or Beet Daishe (qv). The wine should be light and dry—Riesling or Niersteiner.
Bananas Senegalese (qv) will do well as a final course.
▼▼▼
SHAD ROE MACHIAVELLI SERVES 4
Shad roe is to fish—Dover sole excepted—what soft crabs are to crustaceans, and filet
mignon is to steak. Shad roe baked or broiled with a little butter, salt, and pepper, is
magnificent, and the following recipe gilds the lily in a way, but the way is subtle, which
explains, or should, the name of this dish. Both soft crabs and a filet mignon should be
cooked as simply as possible; so, in general, should shad roe. Yet like a great piano concerto,
and like other really great basic foods, it lends itself to an impromptu cadenza now and again,
and it is such a variation you may play in this recipe. Unfortunately, like soft crabs, shad roe
has a season, and out of that season it is senseless to attempt it, despite deep freezes and the
tinning industry. Shad roe must be fresh. I would as soon cook soft crabs in the middle of
winter as I would shad roe in the fall. This recipe will give you a superior dinner dish. It may
be waste-fully used at luncheon or supper; with the quantity cut in half it will serve
beautifully as a fish course at a formal dinner.
4 SETS FRESH SHAD ROE
3 TABLESPOONS BUTTER
1 TEASPOON FRESH PEPPER
1 TEASPOON DILL, CHOPPED FINE
2 CUPS WHITE WINE
1 BAY LEAF
8 RASHERS BACON
8 SLICES LEMON, VERY THIN
Wash the shad roe in softly running cold water. Grease a large baking dish well with butter.
Lay the roe in it. Dot the roe with butter, and sprinkle it with freshly ground pepper and the
chopped dill. Gently pour on the white wine. Break up the bay leaf and toss it in. Place in a
pre-heated, hot oven (450 degrees), and bake for thirty minutes, basting each five minutes
and turning once. Meanwhile fry the bacon over a low flame until crisp; drain and mince.
When the roe has finished cooking, transfer to a large hot platter or individual plates, pour a
little of the wine over it, and sprinkle with the minced bacon. Garnish with the lemon slices,
and serve hot.
A dish like this deserves the best. Serve with it artichokes or fresh asparagus with melted
butter. Follow it with Salade Belgique (qv) and give your guests either a Montrachet or one
of the better Piesporters. Zabaglione (qv) would be a subtle choice of dessert.
▼▼▼
FLOUNDER FORMAGGIO SERVES 4
Fish and chips sounds fine in London, fish and cheese sounds doubtful anywhere, but when
the combination includes almonds, the recipe has to be given very high marks indeed. Dover
sole should be substituted for flounder if you can get it, which is unlikely. But sole or
flounder, you will have a very fine fish course for dinner or a good main course for that meal.
The dish is a little elaborate for luncheon or supper. The best broth, of course, is fish stock,
but if that is unavailable, chicken stock or even veal broth will serve admirably. Blanched
almonds are essential.
1 LARGE ONION
½ CUP BLANCHED ALMONDS
4 TABLESPOONS BUTTER
2 POUNDS FILLET OF FLOUNDER
2 TABLESPOONS FLOUR
4 CUPS BROTH
½ PINT WHIPPING CREAM
SALT
PEPPER
½ CUP GRATED PARMESAN CHEESE
Chop the onion fine and the almonds not too fine. Melt two tablespoons butter in a skillet,
and sauté the chopped onion until soft. Add the broth. Roll the flounder fillets and fasten
them with toothpicks. Poach them in the skillet, covered and over a low fire, until done, about
twelve minutes. Remove the toothpicks, and transfer the fish to individual baking dishes.
Melt the remaining butter in a saucepan, make a roux with the flour, and cook it, stirring
constantly, over a low flame for five minutes. Strain the broth and gradually add to the roux
to make a fairly thick sauce. Cook it for about ten minutes, stirring all the time. Add the
whipping cream, the salt and pepper, and over the: same low flame stir in the Parmesan
cheese slowly until the sauce thickens again. Pour it over the fish. Sprinkle the chopped
almonds over the top. Place the baking dishes in the broiler under a high flame (500 degrees)
for five minutes. Garnish with a sprig of parsley each, and serve at once.
Baby new potatoes, boiled, and dressed with butter and chopped parsley, are perfect here. I
would serve cold asparagus spears with Hollandaise (qv), as both green vegetable and salad,
and a Lachryma Christi. The dessert should be fresh fruit.
▼▼▼
SEAFOOD ET AL SERVES 6
If you like variety in your seafood, this is your dish. The recipe contains four different kinds,
but there is no reason why you should not include also: cooked lobster, clams, several other
types of filleted fish, or perhaps octopus. Crab meat should be avoided, as it tends to
disintegrate and lose its flavour when combined with more robust ingredients. The grapes
give a very interesting tang to the sauce without making it too sweet, and are an essential part
of the recipe. Omit them, and you have an entirely different dish. And the grapes should be
fresh; tinned ones lack sparkle and detract from, rather than add to, the taste. Unless fresh
ones are available it would be better to eschew the recipe. The dramatis personae may look
formidable, but are easy to meld into a most interesting production and one which will
provide an attractive, nourishing, and tasteful main course for a formal or an informal dinner.
Seafood et Al, I need hardly add, will obviously make a feast day out of a fast day.
Photo owned by He Wikipedia
1 PINT LARGE OYSTERS
1 CUP CLAM JUICE
l½ POUNDS FILLET OF FLOUNDER
2 TABLESPOONS BUTTER
½ TEASPOON TARRAGON
1 TEASPOON MARJORAM
2 TINS CONDENSED CREAM OF CELERY SOUP
½ CUP DRY WHITE WINE
PINCH CAYENNE
SALT
PEPPER
3 DOZEN FRESH, SEEDLESS GRAPES
1 FOUR-OUNCE TIN BUTTON MUSHROOMS
1 POUND SCALLOPS
1 POUND COOKED SHRIMP
6 SPRIGS PARSLEY
Drain the oysters and mix the liquor with the clam juice. Use a deep baking dish or casserole
from which you will serve at table. Grease the baking dish with butter, and lay the fish fillets
on the bottom. Dot with butter and sprinkle the tarragon and marjoram over them. Bake in a
moderately hot oven (450 degrees) fifteen minutes. While the flounder is baking, make the
sauce. Empty the condensed celery soup into a saucepan, and over a low heat, thin it with the
clam juice mixture and the white wine, stirring all the time with a wire whisk to make it
smooth. Add a pinch of cayenne, and salt and pepper to taste. The sauce must not be too
thick, as it should seep through the contents of the dish to cover all the ingredients. It must,
however, be thick enough to hold them together. When the sauce has reached the proper
consistency, and you are satisfied with the seasoning, add to it the grapes and drained
mushrooms, and remove from the fire. Remove the casserole from the oven, and pour off
most of the liquid which has formed. Now, in layers, put in the oysters, the scallops, and the
shrimp. If you are using cooked lobster, add it last. Pour the sauce over the food, and return
the casserole to the oven long enough to cook the oysters and scallops, from five to ten
minutes. Remove, garnish with parsley, and serve.
Broccoli and rissole potatoes are attractive and complementary with this dish. Follow with
Cole Slaw Mabel (qv) or Greenbrier Salad (qv). Because the grapes in the recipe add a
slightly sweet taste, the wine might well be a Barsac or even a Sauterne. Cheese is a good
final course for this meal, and if you want a sweet to end it all, Chocolate Cheese (qv) would
be a good selection.
▼▼▼
SEA BASS WINTHROP SERVES 2
Caesar had his Brutus, Charles the First his Cromwell, and Massachusetts its Winthrop; and
in the Winthrop House on Massachusetts Avenue in Washington this dish first saw the light
of day, or first appeared, at least, on any table. It is a baked fish, and while baking is a longer
process than frying—heaven save the word, I mean sautéing—it requires less attention from
the cook, who is left free to: prepare other parts of the meal, drink with his guests, or pursue
any other whim his fancy dictates. Baking, too, preserves the flavor of the fish and allows
time for the herbs to impregnate it more deeply. The recipe calls for sea bass or rockfish, but
it may be applied to any other fish of similar size and type. This is basically a dish for dinner,
but could be used at supper or even luncheon, or as a fish course at a formal evening meal.
1 CLOVE GARLIC OLIVE OIL
1 SEA BASS, ABOUT TWO AND A HALF POUNDS
¼ CUP DRY WHITE WINE
2 TEASPOONS MINCED PARSLEY
½ TEASPOON TARRAGON
1 MEDIUM ONION, CHOPPED FINE
2 TEASPOONS MINCED CELERY LEAVES
1 TEASPOON PAPRIKA
SALT
PEPPER
1 LEMON, QUARTERED
Rub a shallow pan with garlic, and grease with olive oil. Remove the head and tail of the fish,
clean well, and split it, or have your fishmonger do it for you. Rub the fish inside and out
with olive oil. Open it up, and lay it, skin side down, in the greased pan. Cut the garlic in half
and place the pieces in corners of the pan. Pour the wine over the fish, and sprinkle it with the
chopped parsley, tarragon, onion, celery leaves, and paprika.
Season with salt and pepper. Place in a hot oven (450 degrees), and bake, basting
occasionally, for about forty minutes, depending on the size of the fish. Serve on a hot platter,
garnished with lemon quarters. Hot biscuits, baby lima beans, and Cole Slaw Mabel (qv) will
make a rewarding dinner. Add a bottle of well-chilled Liebfraumilch and the reward will be
even greater. Eve's Dessert (qv) would come in handily here.
This reproduction is made possible by Susan Alexander Truffles. Contact us if you’re looking
for the finest truffles in the market.

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23 Quick-Fix Seafood Recipes for Dinner

  • 1. 23 Quick-Fix Seafood Recipes for Dinner It is always well to commence any thesis by defining one's terms. This section deals with food which comes out of the sea. Fish come out of the sea. Logically, therefore, recipes for cooking fish belong here, and here they are. Seafood, however, has another meaning, at least in the eastern part of the United States. It is a term which embraces all food that comes out of the sea, except fish. It includes: oysters, clams, lobsters, crayfish, scallops, shrimp, prawns, crabs, octopodes, and all other varieties of non-fish, except mammals which live in water. For the purpose of titling this section and to keep together all denizens of the deep, I have included fish here. In all other respects, the term "seafood" refers to non-fish. Clear? Of all types of food, that which comes out of the water is probably the most versatile. In some form or other it can be served at breakfast or at luncheon. It makes ideal supper dishes, it enjoys the distinction of a course of its own at formal dinners, and it frequently is the main course at less pretentious evening affairs. It forms an important ingredient of hors d'oeuvre and antipasto; it makes fine soups and salads, and is as frequently eaten cold as hot. It can be boiled, broiled, baked, stewed, sautéed, poached, and steamed. It combines well with most seasonings and with other types of food, and, what is important here, it can be prepared more easily and cooked more rapidly than almost anything else except eggs. One note of caution should be mentioned, and it is iterated and reiterated in the recipes. Seafood should be fresh. Nothing will make you quite so ill as bad fish or seafood. More than
  • 2. that or perhaps less, the taste of fresh seafood is infinitely superior to that out of the water for even a day. Great strides have been made over the past few years in the freezing and packaging of foods, but no advance yet has succeeded in retaining the pristine goodness of fresh seafood. If, however, you must depend on frozen fish, or lobster, or roe, or any other variety, be sure that it is allowed to thaw naturally and thoroughly before you start to cook it. Cooking half-thawed shrimp or crab lump can end only in disaster. One word about a specific type of seafood: shrimp. It is preferable to start with green or raw shrimp and cook them yourself in their shells rather than to use commercially cooked shrimp, if for no other reason than because they will taste better. Cooking green shrimp is simple, and you will find various methods in any basic cookbook. One method is described in the recipe called Baked Shrimp Rapide. There have long been two widely held beliefs about seafood: oysters are aphrodisiac and fish is good for the brain. Unfortunately oysters have no such quality, as the first four recipes in this section will prove—in the real but neglected sense of the word. Esquimaux live exclusively on fish, and I have never heard of a genius from the North Pole. ▼▼▼ HUÎTRES APHRODITES SERVES 2 TO 4 The title of this recipe and part of its contents suggest a purpose and an effect above and beyond the call of gastronomy. I have grave doubts that it will accomplish anything of the sort. I am sure, however, that whether you serve the dish because you like oysters, or are hungry, or for some other and ulterior motive, you will find it novel, exciting, and extremely good. And it is highly versatile: suitable for luncheon, informal dinner, or supper. It could well appear as the fish course at a formal dinner. Moreover, it may be prepared equally well in chafing dish or skillet. The proportions listed below are more or less a compromise. A pint of oysters is not excessive for a reasonably hungry man at luncheon or supper, but it is too much if other courses follow. This recipe, then, will be about right if it is to be the chief item at a meal for two; otherwise it is sufficient for four. 1 QUART LARGE OYSTERS 1 TABLESPOON BUTTER 1 CLOVE GARLIC ½ TEASPOON MINT, VERY FINE ¼ TEASPOON MARJORAM ¾ TEASPOON POWDERED CINNAMON 1 PINCH CAYENNE
  • 3. SALT 3 DASHES SCOTCH BONNET ¼ CUP MALMSEY 4 SPRIGS PARSLEY Drain the oysters. Melt the butter in a chafing dish blazer or in a skillet, cook the garlic for a few moments, and add the oysters. Sprinkle them with the mint, marjoram, cinnamon, and cayenne. Season with salt and Scotch Bonnet, and stir well. Sauté the oysters, stirring occasionally, until the edges begin to curl. Remove the garlic, and pour in the wine. Continue to cook until the oysters are plump. Serve on hot plates, garnished with parsley. The oysters may be placed on buttered triangles of hot toast, or, and I think better, be accompanied by French bread. For salad, try Salade Belgique (qv). The best wine with oysters is unquestionably Chablis, but this recipe is highly seasoned for that wine and is, besides, rather a gala affair; so in a spirit of good clean fun, I commend to you: champagne. Candor compels me to confess, too, that a glass or so of the same Malmsey that went into the cooking is as good an accompaniment as it is an ingredient. If you must have a vegetable, let it be tinned baby carrots. Simple fresh fruit would be the best way to finish the meal. Eve's Dessert (qv) would be good, too. ▼▼▼ OYSTERS SMITHFIELD SERVES 4 The last place one would expect to find a recipe for inclusion in a cookbook would be a newspaper cafeteria. Yet that is the origin of this one, or, at least, that is where I first ate panned oysters and Smithfield ham. The cafeteria manager, who ate in the cafeteria as all cafeteria managers should be required to do, enjoyed this combination and, during the oyster season, was always able to produce it on demand. Occasionally on high days and holidays it was on the regular bill of fare, price forty cents. You cannot produce it in your own kitchen for that today, but, whatever its price, it is worth every penny. And you can cook it in less than fifteen minutes. If you do not like Smithfield ham, you may substitute plain baked or even boiled ham. Photo owned by Urville
  • 4. 1 QUART OYSTERS FRESH BLACK PEPPER 4 LARGE, THIN SLICES SMITHFIELD HAM, COOKED 4 SPRIGS WATER CRESS 1 LEMON, QUARTERED In the skillet or the bottom pan of a chafing dish, cook the oysters in their own juice over a gentle flame. After they have cooked for about two minutes, grind the pepper over them, and cover with ham slices. Continue cooking slowly until the edges of the oysters curl and they are plump. Remove from the fire. Place one slice of ham on each plate, put the oysters on top of the ham, garnish with water cress and lemon quarters, and serve. A fine vegetable to go with these oysters is braised celery, followed by Mixed Green Salad III (qv), or serve cold asparagus spears and Hollandaise (qv), omitting salad. Crusty French bread, or rye bread with fennel, and a well-chilled bottle of Chablis are musts. Green Mint Glacé (qv) would be a good dessert. ▼▼▼ OYSTERS AU VIN ET ANETH SERVES 4 There was once in Paris, and may be still, a small but good inn with the fascinating name of the Hotel of the Universe and of Portugal. It was, of course, on the Left Bank. There is no known connection between that fact and this recipe, except that the name of the hostelry fascinates me and the taste of the oysters prepared in this manner fascinates me too. For some reason, obvious probably to a psychiatrist, I never eat the one without thinking of the other. Oddly enough the same thing will happen to you. Did you ever stand in a corner and try not to think of a white bear? But to return to our oysters. They are almost as universal as the hotel. They may be served before the soup, or after it; they may appear as a main course at dinner, at luncheon, and at supper. The recipe will yield enough for four hungry people at dinner. 2 QUARTS OYSTERS 1 BOTTLE DRY WHITE WINE (CHABLIS IS BEST) ½ CUP BUTTER 6 TABLESPOONS FLOUR 2 TEASPOONS CHOPPED DILL SALT PEPPER
  • 5. ¼ CUP CREAM ¼ CUP FINE BREAD CRUMBS 4 SPRIGS WATER CRESS Drain the oysters well. Place the wine in a saucepan, and bring it to a boil over a low flame. Add the oysters and continue cooking for about one minute, or until the wine commences to simmer again. Cover, turn out the fire, and allow the oysters to poach for another minute or minute and a half. Drain the oysters, reserving the wine, and place them in a large casserole or in individual ovenproof dishes. Strain the wine through cheesecloth. Melt the butter in the saucepan, add the flour, and make a light roux, cooking it over a low flame for about five minutes. Remove from the fire and gradually pour in enough of the hot, strained wine to make a sauce, blending it well with a wooden spoon to avoid lumping. Add the dill, salt, and pepper, and cook over a small flame, stirring constantly until the sauce is cooked, add the cream, and cook a few minutes more. Pour the sauce over the oysters, sprinkle with bread crumbs, and dot with butter. Place in a hot oven (500 degrees) for three minutes. Remove, garnish with water cress, and serve very hot. There are no vegetables which go well with this dish. You will want to serve French bread to sop up the sauce, and follow the oysters with a raw Spinach Salad (qv). The wine should be Chablis. Ginger Ching (qv) would be a refreshing dessert. ▼▼▼ OYSTER STEW HARFORD SERVES 2 As far as I know this stew was invented by my father; I have never found it anywhere except in my own home. How he managed to make this contribution to the table has always remained a mystery, as he could cook nothing else except bacon and eggs over a camp-fire. Mystery or no, you will agree that his recipe is outstanding. Aside from the fact that it contains oysters, this stew has little in common with the oyster stews noted on restaurant menus in the eastern maritime states, and even less with those made beyond the mountains where fresh unfrozen oysters are difficult to come by. If this dish is to be the soul-satisfying thing it can be, fresh oysters are essential. A quart of oysters for two is not excessive if one remembers that this recipe produces a stew, not a soup to be eaten as part of a meal. It is a meal in itself. It is especially recommended for Sunday supper or an after-theatre party, as it responds well to chafing dish treatment. 1 QUART FRESH, LARGE OYSTERS 6 TABLESPOONS BUTTER 1 CUP CHOPPED ONION ¾ CUP DICED CELERY, INCLUDING THE LEAVES ¼ DICED APPLE
  • 6. ½ PINT TABLE CREAM SALT PEPPER 2 TABLESPOONS PAPRIKA Strain the oysters, but do not wash them. Reserve the oyster liquor. Melt the butter in a large skillet or the top pan of a chafing dish. Add the oyster liquor. When the liquid is hot, put in the diced onion, celery, and apple, and allow to cook slowly. This stew must be cooked slowly over a low flame at all times, and must never be permitted to boil. When the celery and onions are soft, about ten or fifteen minutes, pour in the cream, and then season to taste with salt and pepper. Continue to cook slowly. Just as the first simmering bubbles appear around the edges of the skillet, put in the oysters. Continue to cook over a low heat, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon, until the oysters are done. Properly cooked oysters are plump, firm, and the edges curl. Overcooking will make them shrink and detract from their flavor. The moment the oysters are done, serve the stew in very hot plates, garnished with a sprinkling of paprika. Cole Slaw Mabel (qv) makes a good accompaniment; a better one is raw cabbage, cut into wedges and served without dressing; and a large dish of oyster crackers. Add a bottle of Chablis and the supper becomes a feast. Fresh fruit or a Blue cheese, such as Stilton or Roquefort, is the only possible finale. ▼▼▼ CLAMS OZ SERVES 4 Unless you like pepper, this dish is not for you, but if you do, you will find it exhilarating and, as the English say, "absolutely wizard." The recipe is controlled completely by the quantity and the quality of the pepper put into the sauce. It must be freshly ground black Java pepper, and you should use at least a teaspoonful, or more, depending on your tolerance. Properly made it is an ideal clam dish for luncheon or supper; it has merit as a fish course at dinner; and if you are fond of soft clams you may wish to serve it as a main course for that meal. If you do, you would be well advised to add a fourth tin of clams. 3 TINS UNDERWOOD SOFT CLAMS 2 BOTTLES CLAM JUICE 1 BAY LEAF ½ TEASPOON THYME 3 TABLESPOONS BUTTER 2 TABLESPOONS FLOUR ½ TABLESPOON DRY MUSTARD
  • 7. 2 TABLESPOONS WHITE WINE ½ TEASPOON SALT 1 TEASPOON MONOSODIUM GLUTAMATE ½ TABLESPOON FRESH BLACK PEPPER Drain the clams and discard the liquid. Place the bottled clam juice in a saucepan; add the bay leaf and thyme, and place, covered, over a low flame to simmer for about fifteen minutes. Melt the butter in another and larger saucepan, add the flour and dry mustard to make a roux, and cook for five minutes over a low flame. When cooked, remove the bay leaf from the clam juice, and gradually add the juice to the roux to make a sauce. Cook the sauce slowly, stirring constantly, for about ten minutes. Add the white wine, the salt, the monosodium glutamate, and grind in the black pepper. Still stirring, cook until the sauce comes to a boil, but do not allow it to boil. Put the clams in the sauce, heat through, and serve at once. You may serve the clams on toast triangles, but French bread on the side is better. For vegetables: baby beets, to give color, or baby lima beans are suggestions. Personally I do not like vegetables with clams, but think a Double Cressed Salad (qv) after them makes an enviable luncheon or supper. Beer is an excellent beverage with these clams, and so, too, for that matter, is a moderately dry white wine, Vouvray, for example. Fragole Marsala (qv) is a dessert to be considered. ▼▼▼ CLAM STEW BARNEY OLDFIELD SERVES 2 Aside from its succulence, the chief attribute of this stew is the celerity with which it can be concocted and served. Hence its name. I have never timed it, but my guess is that it can be got ready and served in about the time it takes a fast racing car to make one circuit of the Nürburgring, or say ten minutes. It is one of the products of the luncheon club mentioned in the Introduction and is the first dish I think of when I have to put a midday meal or a supper on the table in haste. It has merit beyond its speed, as it is rich, full-flavored, and filling. It is, too, ideal for chafing dish cookery. If you and your guest are very hungry, it might be wise to double the quantities, as the recipe yields no more than two medium portions. Brands other than those mentioned may do as well, but I have not tried them. I know these will make an excellent dish. 1 TIN UNDERWOOD SOFT CLAMS 1 TIN CAMPBELL'S CONDENSED CLAM CHOWDER 2 TABLESPOONS DRY WHITE WINE
  • 8. Photo owned by Marlith Drain the clams and reserve the liquor. Put the clam chowder in a saucepan or chafing dish, and, over a low heat, thin with liquor from the clams. (If all the liquid is used, the stew will be on the thin side; three quarters of the clam juice will give a good, solid stew.) Add the clams and heat thoroughly. Just before serving, stir the while wine in well; the stew will need no other seasoning. Carr's Table Water Biscuits and a Covent Garden Salad (qv) with hot coffee make a highly satisfactory quick meal. If it is to be more than that, include broccoli as a vegetable, a bottle of Riesling, and Peaches Tiberius (qv) for dessert. Crab Imperial, Deviled Crab, Crab Ravigotte, Stuffed Crab, or Crab Capitol are essentially the same, with only minor variations in content. One uses green peppers, another mayonnaise, some use egg yolks raw, others use eggs hard-boiled; one at least uses poultry seasoning. The differences are unimportant. All have in common dry mustard and other chemically hot condiments. This particular recipe could be given any of the foregoing names without fear of serious dissent, but as it was first prepared in the shadow of the Capitol in Washington that seemed an appropriate name. If another reason is required, the crab mixture could be heaped in the baking dishes to resemble a dome and topped with half a radish in lieu of the Statue of Freedom. Back-fin crab lump makes a better dish, but for once ordinary crab flakes may be substituted, with pecuniary benefit to the host. This is a good dinner dish, and does well at luncheon or supper. ½ POUND MUSHROOMS 2 LARGE STALKS CELERY 2 PIMIENTOS 3 SPRING ONIONS 6 TABLESPOONS BUTTER l½ CUPS MILK 5 TABLESPOONS FLOUR
  • 9. 1 TEASPOON SALT ½ TEASPOON BLACK PEPPER 1/8 TEASPOON CAYENNE 1 TABLESPOON DRY MUSTARD TABASCO ¼ CUP WHITE WINE l½ POUNDS CRAB LUMP 4 TEASPOONS FINE BREAD CRUMBS Chop the mushrooms, not too fine. Dice the celery and the pimientos, and slice the spring onions all fine but not minced. Melt the butter in a large skillet and sauté the mushrooms over a low fire until they are about half cooked. Add the celery and the onion and continue to cook over a low flame until they are soft. Scald the milk. Add the flour to the skillet and blend into a light roux. Cook for about five minutes, remove from the fire, and gradually stir in the hot milk to make a smooth sauce. Put in the salt, pepper, cayenne, mustard, and three or four dashes Tabasco. Stir in well and return to the fire, cooking slowly until the sauce thickens, about ten minutes, stirring constantly. Add the white wine and stir well. Place the crab lump in a large bowl, add the diced pimientos, and pour on the contents of the skillet. Mix the whole very thoroughly but gently with a fork or your fingers, being careful not to break up the crab. Grease four individual baking dishes or ramekins with butter—use crab shells for an informal meal—and fill each with a goodly portion of the crab mixture. Sprinkle lightly with bread crumbs, dot with a little butter, and bake in a moderate oven (350 degrees) for five minutes. Serve hot. For the same reason that I eat homemade biscuits with fish-habit—I eat fresh asparagus with this crab, but there is no reason why you should not serve Brussels sprouts or any other green vegetable with it. Mixed Green Salad I (qv) will follow it beautifully. And it cries aloud for wine. Beer is possible, but a Chablis or a Riesling is much, much better. Raspberry Fluff (qv) would be a suitable dessert. ▼▼▼ CRAB CHESAPEAKE SERVES 2 The Chesapeake Bay and the land immediately surrounding it are justly famous for their history, hospitality, and contributions to gastronomy. Among these last, the oyster and the blue crab, soft shell or hard, are, if I may use the expression, peerless peers. No resident of the area will admit that any other seafood anywhere can compare with either. He may be right. But right or wrong, few dishes will equal in delicacy of flavor Crab Chesapeake. At first glance this recipe may seem to be no more than crab served in a cream sauce. The difference, for which we give a large "vive" lies in the use of saffron, whose subtle flavor adds to that of the crab and imparts a piquancy of its own.
  • 10. To make this dish properly—and if you do not make it that way, do not make it at all—you must use back-fin crab lump; crab flakes simply will not do. The fresher it is, the better, but if you are limited to frozen crab lump, be sure that it has thawed slowly and completely. 2 TABLESPOONS BUTTER 2 TABLESPOONS FLOUR ½ PINT TABLE CREAM 1 EGG YOLK 4 TABLESPOONS SHERRY ½ TEASPOON POWDERED SAFFRON SALT PEPPER 1 POUND FRESH CRAB LUMP PAPRIKA In a large skillet or moderate-size saucepan, make a roux with the butter and flour; add the cream, and stir into a light cream sauce. Shake up the egg yolk with one tablespoon of the sherry in a swirl mixer, or beat together lightly in a cup, and thicken the sauce with this mixture, being sure that once the egg has been added the sauce is never allowed to boil. Cook the sauce slowly until it just reaches the simmering stage. It should be quite thick. Add the remaining sherry, and stir in the saffron. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Now add the crab lump, and stir it well in with a wooden spoon, being careful not to break up the crab lumps. Get the mixture as hot as possible without boiling, and serve immediately on triangles of buttered toast. Garnish with paprika. This dish must not be allowed to stand; it becomes mush and is worse than cold scrambled eggs. If for whatever reason you cannot serve it immediately, keep it warm in a double boiler. This crab is good at any time, but is at its best, I think, at Sunday supper, or as a main dish at an intimate dinner. Baby carrots and Mixed Green Salad III (qv) are suggested as combining well with it. Or you might omit the carrots and the salad and serve cold artichokes with Hollandaise (qv). A very good Piesporter is a fitting beverage, but it must be of the best. Although crabs and beer are traditional companions, in this case beer is de trop. Bananas Senegalese (qv) is possible with Crab Chesapeake—but fresh fruit is much better. ▼▼▼
  • 11. CRAB CFUSFIELD SERVES 4 Crisfield, on the Eastern Shore of Maryland, is the center of the Chesapeake Bay crabbing industry and produces some of the finest crab meat in the world. It is only proper, therefore, that the town should give its name to at least one crab dish. The local city fathers should be truly proud to claim this one, which is a kind of baked crab salad. The original recipe included shrimp. It came from one whose impeccable taste in sherry indicates a true gastronome . . . but in my opinion, shrimp detracts from, rather than adds to, the dish, which would be welcome at any meal except a formal dinner. Even there it would serve as a fish course. From a culinary point of view, the recipe is technically interesting, because the onion, celery, and green pepper are not sautéed in butter before they are added to the crab. The recipe will suffice for four, if the four are not too hungry. 1 CHOPPED MEDIUM ONION l½ CHOPPED GREEN PEPPERS ½ CUP CHOPPED CELERY 2 POUNDS CRAB LUMP 1 CUP COOKED PEAS 1 TABLESPOON WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE SALT CAYENNE l½ CUPS MAYONNAISE 4 TABLESPOONS BUTTER ½ CUP FINE BREAD CRUMBS Photo owned by Malagua
  • 12. Chop the onion, the green pepper, and the celery very fine. Place the crab in a large mixing bowl, add the green pepper, celery, onion, cooked peas, Worcestershire sauce, about half a teaspoon of salt, and a pinch or two of cayenne. Ladle the mayonnaise over it, and mix all very well. Grease a baking dish or casserole with butter, and put the mixture in it. Cover with thin patties of butter, and sprinkle the bread crumbs over all. Place in a moderate oven (350 degrees) for twenty-five or thirty minutes. Serve hot. With peas as an integral part of the dish, you will require no green vegetable. I like to serve it with French bread or biscuits, but julienne potatoes would be extremely good. For salad, Cole Slaw Mabel (qv) is not to be overlooked. You will want a dry white wine such as a Niersteiner, or a reasonably good Chablis. The really good ones should be reserved for oysters. Chocolate Whiffle (qv) is a possible dessert, as is a Rum Omelette (qv). ▼▼▼ SOFT CRABS MARYLAND SERVES 2 Properly cooked, the soft crab is to seafood what Napoleon brandy is to spirits, what Chateau Yquem is to sauterne, and what Hecate is to witches. Like roost food which comes out of the waters, the soft crab is at its best when it is freshly caught, cleaned instantly, cooked immediately, and eaten at once. Unless, of course, you are living hard by the crab's home, this is impracticable, but under no circumstances should you buy anything but live crabs. They should be cleaned either by the chef in the kitchen just before cooking; or by the fishmonger at the time of purchase, taken to the stove swiftly, and sautéed forthwith. (If you do not know the technique of cleaning soft crabs, a demonstration is almost mandatory. Once seen and explained, it is simple, messy, but very rewarding in the feeling of accomplishment it gives.) There is one way and one way only to cook the soft crab so as to preserve its delicate flavour. It must be sautéed unadorned and quickly in butter, and seasoned with salt and pepper when it is about half done. To dip it in batter or in bread crumbs is a blasphemy; to serve it with tartar or any sauce other than its own juices mixed with butter is a heresy worse than that of the Albigenses. 1/8 POUND BUTTER 6 SOFT CRABS SALT PEPPER 4 SPRIGS PARSLEY Melt the butter in a skillet large enough to accommodate all the crabs flat on their fronts. Use two skillets if necessary. The crabs will shrink a little in cooking; they will also splatter, so wear an apron. When the butter is hot—it should not brown before the crabs go in—add the crabs and sauté rapidly for about five minutes. Turn each crab with a spatula or cake turner,
  • 13. and cook rapidly on their backs for five minutes. Season with salt and pepper, turn crabs over, and season again. Continue cooking for another five minutes. Remove to a hot platter, pour over them the juices from the skillet, garnish with parsley, and serve. The only possible additional flavouring might be a dash of juice squeezed from a freshly cut lemon. The perfect accompaniment to soft crabs is corn on the cob, fresh corn on the cob with lots of butter, salt, and freshly ground pepper. That and a raw Spinach Salad (qv) make an almost perfect meal, whether it be luncheon, dinner, or supper. If you want another vegetable try baby carrots. For beverage you may serve a Piesporter or even a Graves, but the ideal drink with soft crabs is beer, cold and in quantity. And for dessert, be festive and serve Cherries Jubilee (qv). There is no truth in the rumour that crabs and ice cream are incompatible. ▼▼▼ LOBSTER CANTONESE SERVES 4 One of the great cuisines of the world is Chinese, of which there are two rival schools: Cantonese and Mandarin. To argue their respective merits is feckless, but to draw on them for culinary lore makes sense. This recipe derives from the Cantonese school. Much of its merit comes from the inclusion of bamboo shoots and water chestnuts. These two comestibles are not always available, and I have substituted for them celery and carrots respectively. If you can procure the two Chinese items, use them; if not, the more homely American vegetables will do admirably. Use freshly cooked lobster if possible; otherwise tinned Canadian lobster will suffice. This is a splendid luncheon or supper dish and will give you an opportunity to use those chopsticks which Uncle Fred brought back from his trip around the world. 3 STALKS CELERY 1 LARGE CARROT 4 SPRING ONIONS 3 TABLESPOONS WESSON—OR OTHER BLAND—OIL 6 RASHERS BACON 3 CUPS CHICKEN BROTH ½ CUP WATER 3 TEASPOONS SOY SAUCE 3 TABLESPOONS CORNSTARCH 4 CUPS COOKED LOBSTER MEAT, COARSELY CHOPPED 2 EGGS
  • 14. 1 TEASPOON GARLIC POWDER ½ TEASPOON PEPPER 1 TEASPOON M0N0S0DIUM GLUTAMATE Dice the celery and the carrot, and slice the spring onions, including the green tops, all very fine. Heat the oil very hot in a skillet, put in the diced onion, celery, and carrot; and cook, stirring frequently, over a moderate flame for about twelve minutes. Meanwhile, in another skillet, fry the bacon until crisp, discard the grease, drain the bacon, and mince it. Heat the chicken broth. Mix the water, the soy sauce, and the cornstarch until smooth. Place the chopped lobster in the skillet with the celery, carrot, and onion mixture. Add the bacon, and pour the chicken broth over it. Beat the eggs lightly, and pour in. Do all this over a low fire, stirring constantly. Let cook for about five minutes, and then gradually add the water- soysauce-cornstarch mixture. Season the whole with garlic powder, black pepper, and mono- sodium glutamate. Let cook another five minutes, continuing to stir. Serve hot. I have tried this dish over toast and it was very good, but it really should be served over steamed or boiled rice, with, perhaps, a few peas, chopped broccoli, or bok toy. It goes well with tea, better with beer, even better with white wine. But by borrowing an idea from the Japanese, you may get an almost perfect combination. Serve hot Sake or, failing that, pour a bottle of Sauterne into a saucepan and heat it, without letting it boil. Remove to a covered pitcher with a spout, and serve warm in after-dinner coffee cups. I think no salad is necessary or desirable. The dessert will be, of course, Ginger Ching (qv). Photo owned by Matthew ▼▼▼ LOBSTER STEW MERCEDES-BENZ SERVES 2 This quick lobster stew is a rich, colourful, and useful contribution to luncheon, supper, and late party menus. Like Clam Stew Barney Oldfield it is simple and very fast to make, and can be put together in the kitchen or in a chafing dish with equal celerity. For some reason, probably because of Lobster Lil, it has always seemed a little more formal than the Clam Stew and could well be the basis for a proper dinner. The recipe makes just about enough for two moderately hungry souls; so you may wish to increase the quantity if you and your guest
  • 15. want more than a "short order" meal. However or whenever you have it, you will find it a rewarding dish. 1 TIN AU GOURMET CANADIAN LOBSTER 1 TIN JACK AUGUST'S LOBSTER STEW ½ CUP CREAM 1 TABLESPOON BUTTER 2 TABLESPOONS SHERRY ¼ TEASPOON POWDERED SAFFRON SALT PEPPER Remove the gristle from the lobster claws, and cut the lobster into generous pieces. Put the Jack August stew into a saucepan or the top pan of a chafing dish, thin with cream, and add the butter. When the butter has melted, stir in the sherry and the saffron. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the lobster meat and heat thoroughly over a low flame. Serve in hot soup plates. Trenton oyster crackers or buttered French bread should be served with the stew. It is delicious, too, over boiled rice. With lobster I like a Piesporter. To follow I would suggest Salade Belgique (qv) with a mustard dressing. Like Oyster Stew Harford, this is no dish for calorie counters. Eve's Dessert (qv) would end the meal pleasantly and not too richly. ▼▼▼ BAKED SHRIMP RAPIDE SERVES 4 These shrimp are similar to what is known in the Chesapeake Bay country as Shrimp Norfolk, but are quicker and will not dry up as Shrimp Norfolk have been known to do. The wine and dill combine to impart a very delicate taste to this dish; yet a man was once so callous as to pour ketchup on it. His wife left him. Starting with already cooked shrimp, the recipe takes about fifteen minutes; with green shrimp, double the time. Green shrimp are much better and less expensive than commercially cooked shrimp, and little trouble to prepare (see below). As given, the recipe will feed four moderately hungry people. It would do better, probably, for three, as a half-pound of shrimp per person is not unreasonable. Two pounds of raw shrimp will yield about a pound and a half of cooked. To cook green shrimp: half fill a large saucepan with water and add the juice of a lemon and a tablespoon of salt. Bring the water to a boil, toss in the unshelled shrimp, and boil them for five minutes—no longer. Drain in a colander, run cold water over them, or place in a refrigerator until they are cool enough to handle. Remove the shells and devein them.
  • 16. l½ POUNDS COOKED SHRIMP 6 TABLESPOONS BUTTER 3 TEASPOONS FINELY CHOPPED FRESH DILL 1 TEASPOON SALT ¼ TEASPOON BLACK PEPPER ½ CUP DRY WHITE WINE 4 SPRIGS WATER CRESS Grease four ovenproof individual serving dishes lightly with butter. Put in the shrimp, dot with butter, sprinkle with dill (dried dill or dill seed may be substituted for fresh), salt, and pepper. Pour the wine overall and place in an oven pre-heated to 350 degrees. Ten minutes will suffice to heat thoroughly, but baste twice during that time. Remove from the oven, garnish with water cress, and serve very hot. Almost any green vegetable goes well with these shrimp. Serve them with salt sticks and hot artichokes with melted butter, and follow with Beet Daishe (qv). Better yet, substitute Avocado Salad (qv) for the vegetables and the Daishe. The wine should be light, a Riesling or a Niersteiner. One dessert might be Green Mint Glacé (qv). ▼▼▼ SHRIMP CREOLE SERVES 4 This is a quick version of a famous Louisiana shrimp dish and belongs in that group of recipes which use tinned, concentrated soups for sauces. Thus made, it has the additional merit of being qualitatively elastic, as you may always add rice—the rice in the soup is enough for four normal servings—and thus make the recipe stretch to feed an additional mouth. The same sauce may be used to equally good advantage with cooked chicken, either cubed or in larger pieces, such as breasts or legs. If, therefore, your larder contains a few tins of condensed gumbo Creole soup, and a tin or two of either shrimp—fresh shrimp are better—or boned chicken you have quickly available an excellent means of coping with unexpected diners and can urge them to stay with a good conscience, or, at least, and it comes to the same thing, secure in the knowledge that you can feed them well and fully. Photo owned by Cayenne Man
  • 17. 2 RASHERS BACON 4 STALKS CELERY 1 MEDIUM ONION 2 TABLESPOONS BUTTER 2 TINS CONDENSED GUMBO CREOLE SOUP 4 TABLESPOONS CONDENSED CREAM OF TOMATO SOUP ½ CUP WHITE WINE SALT PEPPER TABASCO l½ POUNDS COOKED SHRIMP Sauté the bacon until crisp, and chop it, not too fine. Dice the celery and the onion. Melt the butter in a small skillet and sauté the celery and onion dice until soft. Empty the gumbo Creole soup into a large saucepan, add the cooked bacon, the celery, onion, tomato soup, and white wine. Season with salt and pepper and a dash or two of Tabasco. Stir the mixture well and put in the shrimp. Cook over a low flame until thoroughly hot. Serve very hot. Cold artichokes with Hollandaise (qv) may serve as both salad and green vegetable, as may an Avocado Salad (qv), but without bacon in the dressing. An excellent wine would be Liebfraumilch, while Chocolate Cheese (qv) would be a good dessert. ▼▼▼ SHRIMP ORLEANS SERVES 4 Shrimp Orleans could be said to stand in loco parentis to this book. It, like a Rasputini (qv), a noble drink, was born of the same necessity: making too little do for too many. Or, to be exact, stretching the quantity of available food and drink to nourish a couple of extra guests who arrived after the shops had closed and when I was low on both gin and shrimp. The success of the cocktail, but more especially of the shrimp, spurred a search for other exciting recipes which could be prepared quickly with ingredients easily stored in the larder. Because it was partly to help meet similar emergencies that this book was written, Shrimp Orleans merits appreciation; its taste merits acclaim. A short note on the ingredients may be helpful. The recipe calls for freshly cooked shrimp and a specific kind of concentrated crayfish bisque, a product of New Orleans. Frozen, tinned, or jarred shrimp may be substituted, but in that case the sauce should be allowed to simmer alone until you are almost ready to serve, the shrimp then added and cooked only
  • 18. long enough to heat through. The method of cooking green shrimp appears under Baked Shrimp Rapide (qv). Now for the crayfish bisque. The recipe was first made with a variety called "Laugh Eat", a dreadful pun on the name of the famous Louisiana freebooter. This is the best soup I have found for the purpose. "Vieux Carre" another variety, obviously from New Orleans, will serve almost as well. If neither is available, try a good tinned shrimp or lobster bisque. I have used both successfully. They are not concentrated as a rule, and you should omit the cream. The end result differs somewhat from the original Shrimp Orleans, but it is still a good dish. l¼ CUPS UNCOOKED RICE 3 TABLESPOONS CHOPPED PARSLEY 2 TINS "LAUGH EAT" CRAYFISH BISQUE ½ PINT CREAM 1 TEASPOON CURRY POWDER 1 TEASPOON SALT ¼ TEASPOON PEPPER l½ POUNDS COOKED FRESH SHRIMP While the rice is boiling, chop the parsley very fine. Put the soup into a large saucepan or skillet and gradually dilute with cream, while heating slowly. Stirring constantly, make a fairly thick sauce. When the sauce is smooth and the consistency desired, add the parsley, curry powder, salt, and pepper. Put in the shrimp, and let the dish simmer for about fifteen minutes. Serve over hot rice, which should be just about ready to eat by the time the shrimp are cooked. Served with a dry white wine such as Pouilly Fuissé, and followed by Mixed Green Salad I (qv) containing plenty of spring onions, radishes, and raw carrots, Shrimp Orleans will give you a memorable dinner. If you want to add a green vegetable, peas or baby carrots are recommended. To make the evening more memorable, substitute for the white wine a type of French vin rose called Sainte Roseline. It is superb. One fine dessert would be Cherries Jubilee (qv). ▼▼▼ SHRIMP RISOTTO SERVES 4 A risotto is a stew made with rice. The other chief ingredient can be ham—an example follows later—or chicken, or lamb, or any number of seafoods. This one happens to be made with shrimp. It is essentially an informal dish for dinner or supper, but can prove useful, too, at luncheon. You may add to the recipe chopped onions, or peas, or garlic, without harm or much improvement. As it stands, the recipe is quick and simple but provides adequate
  • 19. provender. If you wish to cut a corner—some of these recipes can be streamlined further— you may substitute tinned mushrooms for fresh but will lose in flavour noticeably if you do. In a pinch, too, you could use plain steamed rather than wild rice without serious damage. l½ POUNDS COOKED SHRIMP ½ POUND FRESH MUSHROOMS 1 TIN (TWELVE OUNCES) COOKED WILD RICE 5 TABLESPOONS BUTTER 1 LARGE DICED GREEN PEPPER 1 SMALL JAR (THREE) DICED PIMIENTOS SALT PEPPER TABASCO 6 TABLESPOONS WHITE WINE If the shrimp are large, cut into thirds; if small, into halves. Wash the mushrooms, remove stems, and slice both caps and stems not too fine. Wash the rice in running warm water in a colander for two minutes. Melt two tablespoons of the butter in a large, heavy saucepan, and sauté over a moderate flame the diced green pepper until soft. Add the mushrooms and two more tablespoons butter, and continue to sauté the mixture, turning frequently, for about five minutes. Reduce the flame. Add the wild rice, the diced pimiento, and the chopped shrimp; season with salt, pepper, and two dashes of Tabasco. Pour in the white wine, and thoroughly stir the mixture. Place the remaining tablespoon of butter on top of the risotto, and let cook over a low fire for about ten minutes more. Serve on hot plates. The best possible green vegetables with this shrimp are peas or green beans, served separately or cooked and added to the risotto just before you put in the wine. If you want an unforgettable risotto dish, include exotic ingredients like shiitake mushrooms and truffle oil. Follow it with a Greenbrier Salad (qv) and drink with it a good Niersteiner or a Tavel. For dessert, Chocolate Whiffle (qv) might be amusing. ▼▼▼ SCALLOPS MARINARA SERVES 4 You will find, as you go through this cookbook, a number of uses for Marinara Sauce, but none of them will be more apposite than its combination with scallops. Thus dressed, scallops make a fine appearance and a quick one too, at luncheon or supper or, in smaller quantity, as a fish course at a formal dinner. Whether you cook this recipe in the kitchen or at the table in a chafing dish, take care not to overcook the scallops lest they become tough.
  • 20. Photo owned by Archon 3 TABLESPOONS BUTTER 3 TABLESPOONS DRY WHITE WINE 2 FOUNDS SCALLOPS ½ TEASPOON SALT ½ TEASPOON PEPPER 6 TABLESPOONS MARINARA SAUCE Melt the butter in a skillet or the blazer of a chafing dish. Add the white wine. When the mixture is hot, put in the scallops and season with salt and pepper. Cook over low heat, turning frequently, until almost done, about four minutes. Drain the scallops, return them to the skillet, and add the Marinara Sauce. Stir well, and cook for about three minutes more. Serve at once on hot plates. Serve the scallops on toast triangles, or accompany them with French bread, or julienne potatoes. Any green vegetable should be quite plain: peas, baby carrots, or carrots julienne sautéed in a little butter with a hint of sugar, or simple spinach— all are possibilities. Follow with an equally simple salad, such as Covent Garden (qv). The wine should be white, but can be either dry or a little, but very little, on the sweet side. A Barsac would be ideal. Try Raspberry Fluff (qv) for dessert. ▼▼▼ SCALLOPS MENTON SERVES 4 In some restaurants this method of cooking scallops is listed on the menu as "Scallops Provencal." Normally, Sauce Provencal contains tomatoes, which have always been
  • 21. extensively grown in the area around Avignon and in Provence generally. But the most obvious ingredient of this sauce is garlic—a condiment not exactly unknown in France but better known in Italy. Menton lies on the border between the two countries; what better name could there be? Whether you serve it for luncheon, or supper, or as an informal dinner, it takes only a few minutes to prepare and will gladden the heart and stomach, not to mention the tongue, of any gourmet. But before you serve it be sure your guests like garlic. 2 POUNDS SCALLOPS 3 LARGE CLOVES GARLIC 8 TABLESPOONS BUTTER 1 TEASPOON FLOUR 3 TABLESPOONS CHOPPED PARSLEY ½ TEASPOON SALT ¼ TEASPOON PEPPER 1 TEASPOON PAPRIKA 2 TABLESPOONS WHITE WINE 1 LEMON, QUARTERED Drain the scallops. Mince the garlic very fine, or, better yet, put it through a garlic press. In a large skillet, brown four tablespoons of butter. Sauté the scallops in the butter, carefully turning them, for approximately five minutes over a moderate fire. Cooking them longer will make them tough. Brown remainder of the butter in a small saucepan, thicken it slightly with the flour, lower the heat, and add the chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and paprika. About a minute and a half before you are ready to serve, add the garlic. It is likely to turn brown if added sooner. Remove the scallops to a hot platter, discarding the juices in which they have cooked. Add the white wine to the sauce, heat for a few seconds longer, and pour the sauce over the scallops. Garnish with lemon quarters. French bread is ideal with this, or homemade baking-powder biscuits. Chopped broccoli au naturel and/or baby beets can be added for vegetables. Or perhaps creamed spinach with a mere hint of onion. The salad should be bland, Salade Belgique (qv), for example, with a light vinegar and oil dressing. Oddly enough, these scallops do extremely well with a good Graves. Fragole Marsala (qv) would make an appropriate and good dessert. ▼▼▼
  • 22. BAKED SALMON DORIA SERVES 4 One advantage of this recipe is that it may be used to cook either a whole salmon or salmon steaks. If the latter, have them cut about an inch and a half thick. The first time I tried this recipe, but before sampling the result, I was not too happy about combining cream and cucumber. It reminded me too vividly of a motion picture in which Wallace Beery, dressed in armour, sat on a castle wall and made an horrendous lunch from a gigantic dill pickle and a quart bottle of milk. The combination here, I assure you, is quite different. The cucumber imparts a very delicate and pleasant flavour to the sauce. It is an excellent dinner dish and, if you cook a whole salmon, noble in appearance. Fresh minced garlic may be substituted for the garlic powder, of course. Photo owned by Marlith 2 CUCUMBERS 1 TEASPOON SALT ½ TEASPOON BLACK PEPPER 4 TEASPOONS THYME 1 TABLESPOON MINCED PARSLEY 1 TEASPOON GARLIC POWDER ¼ POUND BUTTER 1 SALMON, ABOUT FIVE POUNDS ½ PINT CREAM ½ PINT MILK ¼ LARGE CARROT, SLICED VERY THIN 4 SPRIGS PARSLEY
  • 23. Peel the cucumbers and slice them coarsely. Mix the salt, pepper, thyme, parsley, and garlic powder well in a small bowl. Melt the butter in a large baking pan with a cover. Rub the herb and seasoning mixture well into the fish on both sides. Place the fish in the melted butter and baste it well. Pour in the cream and milk, and place the cucumber slices around the fish. Cover and bake in a hot oven (450 degrees) for about fifty minutes—less for salmon steaks— or until fish is done. Transfer it to a serving platter. Discard the cucumber, and pour the sauce over the fish. Garnish with carrot slices and sprigs of parsley, and serve. Not whim but habit has accustomed me to eating homemade biscuits with fish, and I see no reason to make an exception in this case; but if you do not like biscuits, try French-fried or julienne potatoes instead. Carrot slices sautéed in butter and a touch of sugar make an appropriate vegetable and one which will "pick up" the decor of the fish itself. Cole Slaw Mabel (qv) or Tomato Daishe (qv) would be good salad choices. For wine I would select a Piesporter, and for dessert Peaches Tiberius (qv). ▼▼▼ SOLE VERMOUTH SERVES 4 I am indebted to a widely travelled friend for this splendid and unusual recipe, which makes a fine fish course for a formal dinner or a fine main course for that matter. The vermouth imparts an intriguing flavour, but be sure that the type you use is very dry. Any other kind will bring ruin. The recipe calls for sole, but fillet of flounder makes a most acceptable substitute in this case. 1/8 POUND BUTTER ½ CUP ONION, CHOPPED FINE ½ POUND SLICED MUSHROOMS SALT PEPPER l½ POUNDS FILLET OF SOLE ¾ CUP DRY VERMOUTH 1 PINT CREAM 4 SPRIGS PARSLEY Melt the butter in a shallow pan large enough to take the fish. Cook the chopped onion until soft over a low fire, and add the sliced mushrooms; continue to cook slowly, stirring from time to time, until the mushrooms are brown. Season well with salt and pepper. Remove from the fire. Place the fillets of fish on the bed of mushrooms and onions; pour the vermouth and cream over it. Place the pan in a moderate oven (350 degrees) and poach until done, about
  • 24. thirty minutes. Transfer the fish to a hot platter; pour the contents of the pan over it. Garnish with sprigs of parsley and serve. Hot biscuits or baby new potatoes with butter and chopped parsley, and boiled, unpeeled zucchini or plain spinach go well with this sole, which should be followed by Cole Slaw Mabel (qv) or Beet Daishe (qv). The wine should be light and dry—Riesling or Niersteiner. Bananas Senegalese (qv) will do well as a final course. ▼▼▼ SHAD ROE MACHIAVELLI SERVES 4 Shad roe is to fish—Dover sole excepted—what soft crabs are to crustaceans, and filet mignon is to steak. Shad roe baked or broiled with a little butter, salt, and pepper, is magnificent, and the following recipe gilds the lily in a way, but the way is subtle, which explains, or should, the name of this dish. Both soft crabs and a filet mignon should be cooked as simply as possible; so, in general, should shad roe. Yet like a great piano concerto, and like other really great basic foods, it lends itself to an impromptu cadenza now and again, and it is such a variation you may play in this recipe. Unfortunately, like soft crabs, shad roe has a season, and out of that season it is senseless to attempt it, despite deep freezes and the tinning industry. Shad roe must be fresh. I would as soon cook soft crabs in the middle of winter as I would shad roe in the fall. This recipe will give you a superior dinner dish. It may be waste-fully used at luncheon or supper; with the quantity cut in half it will serve beautifully as a fish course at a formal dinner. 4 SETS FRESH SHAD ROE 3 TABLESPOONS BUTTER 1 TEASPOON FRESH PEPPER 1 TEASPOON DILL, CHOPPED FINE 2 CUPS WHITE WINE 1 BAY LEAF 8 RASHERS BACON 8 SLICES LEMON, VERY THIN Wash the shad roe in softly running cold water. Grease a large baking dish well with butter. Lay the roe in it. Dot the roe with butter, and sprinkle it with freshly ground pepper and the chopped dill. Gently pour on the white wine. Break up the bay leaf and toss it in. Place in a pre-heated, hot oven (450 degrees), and bake for thirty minutes, basting each five minutes and turning once. Meanwhile fry the bacon over a low flame until crisp; drain and mince. When the roe has finished cooking, transfer to a large hot platter or individual plates, pour a little of the wine over it, and sprinkle with the minced bacon. Garnish with the lemon slices, and serve hot.
  • 25. A dish like this deserves the best. Serve with it artichokes or fresh asparagus with melted butter. Follow it with Salade Belgique (qv) and give your guests either a Montrachet or one of the better Piesporters. Zabaglione (qv) would be a subtle choice of dessert. ▼▼▼ FLOUNDER FORMAGGIO SERVES 4 Fish and chips sounds fine in London, fish and cheese sounds doubtful anywhere, but when the combination includes almonds, the recipe has to be given very high marks indeed. Dover sole should be substituted for flounder if you can get it, which is unlikely. But sole or flounder, you will have a very fine fish course for dinner or a good main course for that meal. The dish is a little elaborate for luncheon or supper. The best broth, of course, is fish stock, but if that is unavailable, chicken stock or even veal broth will serve admirably. Blanched almonds are essential. 1 LARGE ONION ½ CUP BLANCHED ALMONDS 4 TABLESPOONS BUTTER 2 POUNDS FILLET OF FLOUNDER 2 TABLESPOONS FLOUR 4 CUPS BROTH ½ PINT WHIPPING CREAM SALT PEPPER ½ CUP GRATED PARMESAN CHEESE Chop the onion fine and the almonds not too fine. Melt two tablespoons butter in a skillet, and sauté the chopped onion until soft. Add the broth. Roll the flounder fillets and fasten them with toothpicks. Poach them in the skillet, covered and over a low fire, until done, about twelve minutes. Remove the toothpicks, and transfer the fish to individual baking dishes. Melt the remaining butter in a saucepan, make a roux with the flour, and cook it, stirring constantly, over a low flame for five minutes. Strain the broth and gradually add to the roux to make a fairly thick sauce. Cook it for about ten minutes, stirring all the time. Add the whipping cream, the salt and pepper, and over the: same low flame stir in the Parmesan cheese slowly until the sauce thickens again. Pour it over the fish. Sprinkle the chopped almonds over the top. Place the baking dishes in the broiler under a high flame (500 degrees) for five minutes. Garnish with a sprig of parsley each, and serve at once.
  • 26. Baby new potatoes, boiled, and dressed with butter and chopped parsley, are perfect here. I would serve cold asparagus spears with Hollandaise (qv), as both green vegetable and salad, and a Lachryma Christi. The dessert should be fresh fruit. ▼▼▼ SEAFOOD ET AL SERVES 6 If you like variety in your seafood, this is your dish. The recipe contains four different kinds, but there is no reason why you should not include also: cooked lobster, clams, several other types of filleted fish, or perhaps octopus. Crab meat should be avoided, as it tends to disintegrate and lose its flavour when combined with more robust ingredients. The grapes give a very interesting tang to the sauce without making it too sweet, and are an essential part of the recipe. Omit them, and you have an entirely different dish. And the grapes should be fresh; tinned ones lack sparkle and detract from, rather than add to, the taste. Unless fresh ones are available it would be better to eschew the recipe. The dramatis personae may look formidable, but are easy to meld into a most interesting production and one which will provide an attractive, nourishing, and tasteful main course for a formal or an informal dinner. Seafood et Al, I need hardly add, will obviously make a feast day out of a fast day. Photo owned by He Wikipedia 1 PINT LARGE OYSTERS 1 CUP CLAM JUICE l½ POUNDS FILLET OF FLOUNDER 2 TABLESPOONS BUTTER ½ TEASPOON TARRAGON 1 TEASPOON MARJORAM 2 TINS CONDENSED CREAM OF CELERY SOUP ½ CUP DRY WHITE WINE PINCH CAYENNE
  • 27. SALT PEPPER 3 DOZEN FRESH, SEEDLESS GRAPES 1 FOUR-OUNCE TIN BUTTON MUSHROOMS 1 POUND SCALLOPS 1 POUND COOKED SHRIMP 6 SPRIGS PARSLEY Drain the oysters and mix the liquor with the clam juice. Use a deep baking dish or casserole from which you will serve at table. Grease the baking dish with butter, and lay the fish fillets on the bottom. Dot with butter and sprinkle the tarragon and marjoram over them. Bake in a moderately hot oven (450 degrees) fifteen minutes. While the flounder is baking, make the sauce. Empty the condensed celery soup into a saucepan, and over a low heat, thin it with the clam juice mixture and the white wine, stirring all the time with a wire whisk to make it smooth. Add a pinch of cayenne, and salt and pepper to taste. The sauce must not be too thick, as it should seep through the contents of the dish to cover all the ingredients. It must, however, be thick enough to hold them together. When the sauce has reached the proper consistency, and you are satisfied with the seasoning, add to it the grapes and drained mushrooms, and remove from the fire. Remove the casserole from the oven, and pour off most of the liquid which has formed. Now, in layers, put in the oysters, the scallops, and the shrimp. If you are using cooked lobster, add it last. Pour the sauce over the food, and return the casserole to the oven long enough to cook the oysters and scallops, from five to ten minutes. Remove, garnish with parsley, and serve. Broccoli and rissole potatoes are attractive and complementary with this dish. Follow with Cole Slaw Mabel (qv) or Greenbrier Salad (qv). Because the grapes in the recipe add a slightly sweet taste, the wine might well be a Barsac or even a Sauterne. Cheese is a good final course for this meal, and if you want a sweet to end it all, Chocolate Cheese (qv) would be a good selection. ▼▼▼ SEA BASS WINTHROP SERVES 2 Caesar had his Brutus, Charles the First his Cromwell, and Massachusetts its Winthrop; and in the Winthrop House on Massachusetts Avenue in Washington this dish first saw the light of day, or first appeared, at least, on any table. It is a baked fish, and while baking is a longer process than frying—heaven save the word, I mean sautéing—it requires less attention from the cook, who is left free to: prepare other parts of the meal, drink with his guests, or pursue any other whim his fancy dictates. Baking, too, preserves the flavor of the fish and allows time for the herbs to impregnate it more deeply. The recipe calls for sea bass or rockfish, but
  • 28. it may be applied to any other fish of similar size and type. This is basically a dish for dinner, but could be used at supper or even luncheon, or as a fish course at a formal evening meal. 1 CLOVE GARLIC OLIVE OIL 1 SEA BASS, ABOUT TWO AND A HALF POUNDS ¼ CUP DRY WHITE WINE 2 TEASPOONS MINCED PARSLEY ½ TEASPOON TARRAGON 1 MEDIUM ONION, CHOPPED FINE 2 TEASPOONS MINCED CELERY LEAVES 1 TEASPOON PAPRIKA SALT PEPPER 1 LEMON, QUARTERED Rub a shallow pan with garlic, and grease with olive oil. Remove the head and tail of the fish, clean well, and split it, or have your fishmonger do it for you. Rub the fish inside and out with olive oil. Open it up, and lay it, skin side down, in the greased pan. Cut the garlic in half and place the pieces in corners of the pan. Pour the wine over the fish, and sprinkle it with the chopped parsley, tarragon, onion, celery leaves, and paprika. Season with salt and pepper. Place in a hot oven (450 degrees), and bake, basting occasionally, for about forty minutes, depending on the size of the fish. Serve on a hot platter, garnished with lemon quarters. Hot biscuits, baby lima beans, and Cole Slaw Mabel (qv) will make a rewarding dinner. Add a bottle of well-chilled Liebfraumilch and the reward will be even greater. Eve's Dessert (qv) would come in handily here. This reproduction is made possible by Susan Alexander Truffles. Contact us if you’re looking for the finest truffles in the market.