PAGAN/BAGAN
In the many years I am already living in Burma I have learned that Bagan is beautiful but much more than what meets the eye. The Bagan story is the story of a kingdom growing from village level size to about 70 percent of the size of today's Burma/Myanmar. It is the story of 55 Bagan kings, of myth and legends, of nats and nagas, of wars, of political intrigues, of lies, treason and murder, of Ari Buddhism and Theravada Buddhism and the fall from a small but bustling and wealthy royal capital to a quiet, dusty place in Burma's dry zone no one would speak of anymore if it were not for Theravada Buddhism and the magnificent temples and pagodas. Today’s dry and dusty plains of Pagan are despite a significantly increasing number of tourists still enveloped in a tomb-like silence. They are an impressive tribute to Buddhism, especially Theravada Buddhism but otherwise there is nothing that indicates that this was a powerful political and economic centre. The present Pagan/Bagan is much different from the splendid place that is in Marco Polo's records written from 1295 to 1298 described with the following words: ".....one of the finest sights in the world" and “The two pyramidal towers entirely build of marble, ten paces in height…. One of these pyramids was covered with plates of gold an inch in thickness, so that nothing besides the gold was visible; and the other with a plate of silver, of the same thickness. ……. The whole formed a splendid object.” In many of her features present-day Bagan is more like the Pagan that Sir James Scott under his writer name ‘Shway Yoe’ in 1882 (The Burman: His Life and Notions) described with the words: ”Pagan is in many respects the most remarkable religious city in the world. Jerusalem, Rome, Kieff (Kiev), Benares none of these can boast the multitude of temples and the lavishness of design and ornaments that make marvellous the deserted capital on the Irrawaddy." Lifting the curtain of myth and legend and concerning ourselves with the history of Pagan will show that this story is not only one of glory, splendour and beauty. It is also a story of crimes; and here we do not speak of petty crimes. We speak of very, very serious crimes that include patricide, fratricide and murder committed to get to the top and stay at the top. Crimes committed to gain unlimited power and keep it and to amass unimaginable wealth. This is the dark side of the story about power and the Royal families of the Pagan era and post-pagan era. Nowadays the plain of Burma’s deserted capital on the Ayeyawaddy is still densely dotted with pagodas, temples and other religious buildings what is left of them, respectively. The very buildings that bear silent witness to the religious spirit that pervaded the Kingdom of Pagan from 1044 A.D. to 1277 A.D. Some 2.217 ‘payas’ of formerly some 13.000 are still giving valid testimony to Pagan’s ‘Golden Era’ when the city became known as ‘The City of Four Million Pagodas'.
