Apple production technology By Mr Allah Dad Khan

2. Apple Production
Technology
By
Mr Allah Dad Khan

4. Apple is Fruit of tempeate
The apple is a hardy, deciduous woody perennial tree that grows
in all temperate zones. Apples grow best where there is cold in
winter, moderate summer temperatures, and medium to high
humidity. Apples can grow from 10 to 30 feet tall and nearly as
wide. Apples are moderately fast growing, but growth slows with
age. Apple trees can live for 100 years or more. Apple trees
bloom in the spring, set fruit, and take from 100 to 200 days to
reach harvest depending upon the variety.
Yield. An apple tree can yield from 75 to more than 130 pounds
of fruit each year.

5. Apple Varities
• Apple varieties. There are nearly 10,000 different
kinds or varieties of apples. About 7,000 varieties or
cultivars grow in North America. Only about 1,000 of
these of these are grown commercially or in home
gardens.
• Some apple varieties are “sports” or accidental
mutations of another variety and others are bred–
created by apple breeders through cross selection.
Not every sport is productive and worthy of growing.

6. Apple tree sizes and rootstock. An apple tree can be a standard or full-
sized tree which grows to 30 feet tall and can take 6 years to bear its first
fruit or a dwarf or semi-dwarf trees which can grow from 6 to 20 feet tall.
Most dwarf and semi-dwarf trees are grafted on a rootstock which keeps
them small. Dwarf and semi-dwarf trees produce full-sized apples in about
three years.
A grafted apple tree has a root system that is different from the fruit-
producing portion. Some apple trees have more than one graft; some
varieties have not only a different root system but also a different trunk and
branches.
Dwarf, semi-dwarf apples. Apples are dwarfed as a result of the type of root
system onto which they are grafted. Many apple varieties can be purchased
as either standards or dwarfs or semi-dwarfs depending upon the rootstock.
Root systems are identified by their growth at maturity and planting needs.
Here are some, but not all, examples:

7. Apple Root Stocks
• • ‘Seedling’: this is full-growth tree with strong roots.
• • ‘M.27’: this tree makes 15 percent of full growth and is good for containers.
• • ‘ M.9’: this tree makes 25 to 35 percent full growth; plant in moist, well-drained soil.
• • ‘M.26’: this tree makes 30 to 40 percent full growth; plant in well-drained, dry soil.
• • ‘MARK’: this tree makes 30 to 40 percent full growth and is very cold hardy and resistant to fireblight.
• • ‘M-7’: this tree makes 40 to 60 percent full growth and can be grown in wet soil.
• • ‘MM.106’: this tree makes 45 to 65 percent full growth; it can be planted in wet soil but may be susceptible to root rot.
• • ‘MM.111’: this tree reaches 65 to 85 percent full size, tolerates a wide range of soil and is drought resistant and fireblight
resistant.
• Many apple dwarfing rootstocks were originated in England at the Malling Research Station; this accounts for the Ms in their
names.

8. Apple Thining
• Thinning apples basics. Thin the fruit to a distance of twice the diameter of the fruit at maturity.
If you expect the mature apples to be 3-inches across, leave 6 inches between each apple after
thinning. If you’re not sure how big the apples on your tree will be at their peak, thin to a distance
of 6 to 8 inches apart on the branch.
• Some apple thinners remove the fruit on every other spur; others leave a fruit on every third spur
as they thin from the trunk outward on a branch. Always leave the largest fruit on the spur.
Whichever method you choose, the goal is to leave plenty of room for each apple to mature.
• Be careful as you thin to avoid damaging the spurs. A spur thinned this year will likely bear
another apple next year. If you pull to hard when thinning, you could accidentally damage or
detach the spur.
• If your apples are small this year, be sure to thin more heavily next year. If the fruit set is light this
year, thin less or not at all next year.
• There is something about fruit thinning that you might resist. Those clusters of apples seem to
say you’ve done something right; why thin a good thing?
• But a large apple crop or set has more to do with the work of nature than anything you’ve done.
Nature wants a lot of apples. An apple tree will produce many more blossons and fruit than is
necessary; a lot of apple seeds is how nature perpetuates the species.
• But for the kitchen gardener too many apples on a tree can mean smaller fruit, limbs loaded to
the point of cracking or breaking, and sometimes a small crop next year.
• So thinning is a good thing, especially in years when there’s a heavy fruit set. (An apple tree can
summon only so much energy and nutrients to make it through the fruiting season.)

9. Apple June Drop
• June drop. When to thin? Nature often starts the thinning
process on its own a few week after the initial fruit set in
spring. Called “June drop”, apple trees simply shed some of
their smallest fruit. But nature can often use some help,
especially in years when the apple set is heavy, and especially
if you are growing apples for eating.
• A week or so after the “June drop” is a good time to thin your
apple trees. But even as apples approach half their preferred
size in the middle of summer, you can still thin the crop.
• Thinning–sometimes called fruit pruning–can ensure fat,
delicious apples. Thinning can also ensure that apples don’t
touch leaving little room for insects or diseases to take hold.
And for some varieties that “alternate bear” or produce
significant crops every other year, thinning will leave the tree
with the enerfy to produce an equal-sized crop year after year.

10. Apple Spur Type
• Spur-type and branching apple trees. Apples can be
divided into spur-type or branch-fruiting type trees. Spur-
type trees bear fruit on short twigs called spurs. Other
trees bear fruit along branches. Spurs tend to grow close
together and so spur-type cultivars bear more fruit than
the branching or non-spur trees. Spur varieties tend to
bear fruit earlier in life than branching varieties.
Individual spurs may bear fruit for ten years or more.
Standard non-spur trees bear on twigs that tend to be
short lived.

11. Apple Chilling
Requirement
• Chilling requirements. Apples have chilling requirements
or chilling hour requirements. This is the number of hours
at 45°F (7°C) or less that the cultivar or variety requires
each winter in order to flower and leaf out the next
season. Chilling hours can vary from 1,000 or more to as
few as 400 hours. It is important to choose an apple
variety suited to your climate and winter temperatures.

12. Site and Climate
• Site and climate. Apples grow best in full sun away from
constant wind. An apple tree that fall in partial sunlight is not
likely to fully yield. Apples grow in Zones 3 to 9. They can
tolerate winter temperatures as low as -40°F. Apples generally
do not grow well close to the ocean where temperatures remain
moderate most of the year. Late spring frosts can kill apple
flowers (they bloom in late spring after peaches, cherries, and
almonds), and early fall frosts can damage fruit. Choose a
variety suited to your growing region.
• Apples grow best in well-drained loamy soil, although they
will grow in more sandy soil or in soil with some clay. They
grow best in a neutral soil pH of 6.0-7.0

13. Apple Pollination
• Pollination. Most apple varieties have flowers that contain
male and female parts and so are self-pollinating. These trees
will set fruit without cross pollination. However, many
varieties are self-infertile and require a pollenizer. Even trees
that are self-pollinating may have a better fruit-set if there is
cross pollination. Apples can be pollinated by bees and insects
or by pollen that floats on the wind. Plant your apple tree
within 40 to 50 feet of another apple tree that blooms at the
same time or graft a branch from a suitable pollinator onto
your tree. Flowers that are only partially pollinated will tend to
bear fruit that prematurely drops.

14. Apple planting and
spacing
• Planting and spacing. Apple trees can be purchased
either bareroot, balled-and-burlapped, or in a container.
Bareroot trees are available in the winter and early
spring when the trees are dormant and without leaves.
Plant bareroot trees in spring as soon as the soil can be
worked and before the trees begins to significantly leaf
out. These trees are commonly grafted and without
branches, and so are called whips. Make the planting
hole large enough that the roots can be spread out fully.
Look for the soil line on the tree and plant the tree at that
level or an inch or two deeper. If the tree is grafted, set it
in the hole so that the graft is visible when planted.

15. Apple planting and
spacing
• A balled-and-burlapped tree is a tree whose roots are in soil; the roots are enclosed
in burlap. Balled-and-burlapped trees are commonly available in spring also;
however they may be found later in the year. Plant a ball-and-burlapped tree by
positioning the tree in the planting hole at the same depth that it was growing at the
nursery. After positioning the ball into the hole, remove all twine or rope used to hold
the burlap and ball together. Then open the top of the burlap so that water can
penetrate the soil ball. Slide the burlap out from under the fall and lightly tamp in soil
around the root ball.
• A container grown tree can be planted any time during the growing season.
Remove the container carefully and plant the root ball at the same depth as in the
container.
• Space apple trees so that they have full room to mature. Consider the variety of tree
when placing the tree in the garden, yard, or orchard. A standard tree will require 20
to 30 feet of growing space; a semi-dwarf will require 15 to 20 feet and a dwarf tree
will require 10 to 15 feet. For a small garden, choose a dwarf tree or a tree trained
as an espalier or column or small bush.

16. Apple water and Feeding
• Water and feeding. Newly planted apple trees require moderate watering
weekly. Set the water on low and allow it to seep into the soil allowing;
roots will follow deep watering and become well established. Established
apple tree require only infrequent watering but be sure to water all trees
during prolonged dry periods.
• Apple trees will grow 8 to 12 inches each year. Feed apples with a mulch
of aged compost applied liberally around the base of the tree once or
twice a year, in spring or in late fall after leaves have dropped. A half
pound of evenly-balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer for each year the tree has
been alive to a maximum of 10 pounds per tree per year can be applied.
Low levels of potassium, calcium, or boron can reduce growth and fruit
quality. Test the soil for its nutrient content. Spread gypsum on the soil to
raise the calcium level.
• Yields can be improved with a foliar feeding of seaweed extract when
buds begin to show color, again after petals fall, and once again when
fruits are less than 1 inch in diameter.

17. Apple Young trees care
• Care of young trees. Allow apple trees to become
well-established before fruiting. During the first two
years, handpick off flowers and young fruit not
allowing them to develop; this will give the tree
increased energy to establish its roots. In the third
year, allow the tree to bear a small crop. Do not
allow a limb to become so burdened with fruit that it
will bend or break.

18. Apple Thining
• Thinning. Thinning fruit will ensure the quality and
size of the crop. Thinning will also reduce the
tendency of some apple varieties to alternate-bear
that is bear fruit every other year.
• A few weeks after fruit sets, some fruit on the tree
will naturally drop off. This is called June drop; it is
nature’s way of thinning the crop. Apple trees
produce more blossoms and fruit than is necessary
for a full crop.

19. Apple Additional Thining
• Additional thinning will benefit the tree. The rule of
thinning fruit is to allow plenty of room for fruit to
develop. Look for clusters of fruit and remove
smaller apples in each cluster before the fruit
reaches 1 inch in diameter. On larger trees, you can
leave two fruits on each spur and on dwarf trees
leave one fruit on each spur. One method is to
remove all the fruit on every other spur. It is
probably best to break up all clusters leaving just a
single fruit. Fruit that touches another fruit can be
susceptible to disease or pest attack.

20. Apple pruning
• Pruning. Apple trees, like most trees, benefit from
pruning. Pruning will allow the apple tree to produce
quality crop. If you start early in the tree’s life, you
can prune to a central leader; a central leader is a
branch that is allowed to grow vertically and form a
main stem from which all the fruiting branches will
grow at regular intervals. Apple trees tend to be
naturally vase shaped having no central leader but
several scaffold branches

21. Apple pruning
• Prune an apple tree so that plenty of light and air
can penetrate into the center of the tree. One
guideline is to prune so that a bird can fly directly
through the tree without touching its feathers on a
branch. That means pruning out dense, crossed
branches

22. Apple Prunning
• Follow these steps to prune an apple tree:
1. Remove all diseased, dead, or broken branches.
2. Remove all watersprouts. Watersprouts are fast-growing vertical branches that usually have no
side branches.
3. Remove all suckers. Suckers are the fast-growing shoots that grow out of the soil from the roots
below the soil surface.
4. Remove tight V-branching crotches. These are narrow crotches formed by branches that will not
support the weight of a full crop of fruit.
5. Remove crossing or rubbing branches. If two branches cross and rub against each other they
can cause a wound that may allow insects or fungal disease to attack the tree. Remove the least
desirable branch.
6. Never prune away more than one-third of the total tree in a single growing season.
7. Always prune to a growth bud or flush to a main branch or trunk. Remember that apple trees
produce on same lateral spurs several years in a row.
8. Prune every year. Once a tree has been well pruned, it will need less annual pruning; only the
removal of crossing branches and twiggy growth.
9. Prune in late winter when the tree is dormant and before buds appear, particularly heave
pruning. A light maintenance pruning can be done in summer working around the fruit set

23. Apple Pests
• Pests. Apples are susceptible to a number of insects that are
very difficult to control without preventative spraying. Among
the pests that attack apples are scale, apple maggots, codling
moths, fruitworms, leafhoppers, and mites. Many pests can be
controlled with pheromone-bated insect traps and spraying.
1. Here is a general spraying schedule:
2. Apply a dormant oil spray before buds open and when the
temperature has been above 33°F for 48 hours.
3. Apply a multipurpose fruit tree spray when the buds begin to
break.
4. Do not spray when the tree is in bloom.
5. When nearly all the flower petals have fallen begin applying a
multipurpose fruit tree spray every 10 to 14 days.
6. Discontinue all spraying two weeks before harvest.

24. Apple Diseases
• Diseases. Apple trees are susceptible to many fungal diseases that are
difficult to control without use of preventive spraying. Cedar-apple rust
cause yellow-orange spots on leaves and fruit. Powdery mildew results in
a dusty white coating on leaves and fruit. Apple scab results in greenish
brown lead and fruit spots. Fireblight is marked by blossoms that appear
watersoaked and twigs that look black and scorched.
• The best preventative approach to apple diseases is to choose varieties
that are resistant to the diseases in your region. Apart from disease-
resistant cultivars, prune trees regularly to allow for ample sun and air
penetration into the crown of the tree and prune out any diseased
branches, leaves, or fruit. Keep the garden or orchard clean of dead
leaves and branches and plant debris. For some fungal diseases, spray
early in the season with sulfur or copper every week until symptoms
disappear. Do not spray with copper more than twice during the summer
or the following year’s crop may be inhibited.

25. Apple Harvest
• Harvest. Apples come to harvest from midsummer
through late fall. The best way to know if apples are
ready for harvest is to taste them; select one and try it.
Also consider skin color and fruit drop. Apples are
usually ready for harvest when they reach full color; full
color may vary according to the variety. A mature apple
will come away from the tree easily; lift the apple up and
twist in a rotating motion. It should not be necessary to
cut an apple from the stem. Late ripening apples usually
come to harvest more quickly than long-maturing early
and mid-season varieties.